Mine was rounded as well but I went and got a 3/8 Gator Grip socket, and it took it out no problem.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gator-Gr...120A/100351756
Mine was rounded as well but I went and got a 3/8 Gator Grip socket, and it took it out no problem.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gator-Gr...120A/100351756
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 504
My VIN: Yes.
Club(s): (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
The gator grip socket is OK but you can't put a lot of stress on them. For the plugs that are messed up I just hammer the correct socket on as far as I can and then use a beaker bar and they have always come off. It is a bit of a pain to get them out of the socket but using a big hammer always does it. Once you get it out you file or grind the square flat again unless you replace it with a magnetic plug (the drain plug, the level plug doesn't have to be magnetic).
David Teitelbaum
Ive ordered 10mm 4point square socket-- should be here today. I will get the gator if it doesnt work. I am beginning to have doubts about doing this. I dont have a lift. Its on ramps now and i have decent access but its still tight. I can jack up when i need to spin the wheels to get to the bolts on the cv joints. Im positive now this is all original and never been removed. everything is caked on around those cv bolts and the first one i tried is not coming out easy. Probably try and use impact gun to take them out. otherwise its going to be a hell of a workout.
Either way ive paused on doing anything until the socket arrives. If i cant get that out then there is no point in me going any farther being i wont be able to fill the transmission.
as always thanks for all your help.
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 504
My VIN: Yes.
Club(s): (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)
Yeah, it's a bit of a workout, especially as you say, it's all original. I suspect you're gonna spend a lot of time cleaning up and addressing other stuff too, as I did even though it's been done at least once before on my car (I did it all on ramps). Good luck, and don't be afraid
to ask for help.
so ive already f- this up once. am i supposed to use the 3 washers on the right with the newer style seal from dgo? Im stuck and dont want to screw up another one. I have a socket big enough to tap this in flush. Just not sure if i should be trying to use all of those washers?
Thanks guys for your help.
I put the new seal in on its own. Upon further inspection and a lot of help (thanks gregadeath) it appears that washer was just part of the old style seal. I will finish rebuilding joints tomorrow and put it all back together and see if it leaks.. fingers crossed.
[QUOTE=82DMC12;273443]Very rare for the transmission end cap gasket to leak (paper gasket). Oil hanging from the linkage is probably gear oil coming through the "selector shaft seal" and then getting into the bellows. This seal can only be replaced if you remove the end cap from the transmission and the spring inside makes it a Bitch (capital B).
I am about to order the seal and gasket to change this. The oil is all over the top of the linkage. Im 99 % sure its from selector shaft seal. Im going to put it on stands and ramps and give it a shot. I looked at blueprints and am not seeing the spring you refer to. No way to change without removing end cap? scale of 1-10 how hard is this job?
Thanks
Dave..