is this rear main seal ? only one side

[glockworks21]

I have oil leaking slowly out of the half shaft on the drivers side only. the passenger side is completely dry. I believe its trickling down from here and getting to the linkage (see pics) Whats going on ?

[glockworks21]

I see the drive shaft seal kit on DGO. Hopefully thats it? I can start from there. Is it a major job to replace them?

am i on the right track?

[MrChocky]

I see the drive shaft seal kit on DGO. Hopefully thats it? I can start from there. Is it a major job to replace them?

am i on the right track?

It's a bit hard to be sure from the pictures, but if it's leaking at the linkage, then it might just be the gasket at the end of the transmission. This
is a relatively small job, that can be done without removing the transmission - you need to remove the linkages and mount bolts, drain the oil, and remove
the cap. Also a chance to check that the nuts inside are tight. The gasket is cheap from vendors. While you're at it, you might want to replace
the bushings on the shift linkage.

[Gregadeth]

If it's the axle shaft leaking, you'll likely need to replace the axle seal and the o-ring. I just did my driver side this weekend. But I don't think an axle seal leak would reach the linkages, it generally drips down the side and collects at the bottom around the drain bolt.

[82DMC12]

Very rare for the transmission end cap gasket to leak (paper gasket). Oil hanging from the linkage is probably gear oil coming through the "selector shaft seal" and then getting into the bellows. This seal can only be replaced if you remove the end cap from the transmission and the spring inside makes it a Bitch (capital B).

The axle leaks are best fixed by:

1) replacing the o-ring the slides over the splined axle and butts up against the differential bearing (one each side)
2) Remove the axle yokes and get them sleeved by Rob Grady
3) Replace the yoke lip seals, pack them with red grease, and put either hylomar AF or gray RTV on the outside perimeter of the seal before tapping it in
4) put a bead of Hylomar AF inside the axle yoke between the outside of the yoke and where the roll pin punches through
5) Tap in the roll pin with the open side facing OUTWARD

Also replace all the hex bolts that holds the axles to the outer drive shaft and yokes with allen head screws, you can get the kit from DPI.

[glockworks21]

If it's the axle shaft leaking, you'll likely need to replace the axle seal and the o-ring. I just did my driver side this weekend. But I don't think an axle seal leak would reach the linkages, it generally drips down the side and collects at the bottom around the drain bolt.

was it fairly straight forward to do the axle seal? Im pretty sure that the one side is bad. I will have to look again at the linkage. May be two problems. But for sure leaking from the shaft. the other side is completely dry..

[82DMC12]

The axle lip seal is an exercise in frustration if you don't have a lift. The seal taps in VERY tightly and even putting it in a deep freezer for a few days prior doesn't help. You need to make some kind of an arbor to tap it in evenly since the differential stub is sticking out of the transmission. Then you have very little room to swing a mallet especially if lying on your back. I don't recommend it.

That being said, I made an arbor out of PVC pipe fittings and bushings.

This would be a simple job for any auto repair shop with a lift. Provide them with a new lip seal (104216) and axle o-ring (103120) and it shouldn't take long. They'll be even happier if you replace all those M10 bolts for the CV joints with allen head bolts first.

[Gregadeth]

was it fairly straight forward to do the axle seal? Im pretty sure that the one side is bad. I will have to look again at the linkage. May be two problems. But for sure leaking from the shaft. the other side is completely dry..

I found myself saying "if only I had a lift" many times during this job. Without a lift, you're gonna be laying on your back, and that's what makes this a shitty job. I had a lot of trouble getting that flange pin removed, until I got the right tool (6mm pin punch). Then the old seal didn't wanna come out, I went and got a seal remover tool ($8 at Harbor Freight), came out in 2 seconds. I recommend removing the entire half shaft, otherwise it's gonna get in the way - it's six 17mm bolts on each end, these come out easy.

[glockworks21]

thanks for the advice. got everything to do the job. you guys said to check to make sure i could get the fill plug out before i drained and thats as far as i got. its the square head and seems frozen. can see where its been messed with before. rounded a bit. 10mm wrench fits but wont move and afraid to round it even more. soaked it with penetrant oil for now. should i put some heat on it?

Thanks

[MrChocky]

thanks for the advice. got everything to do the job. you guys said to check to make sure i could get the fill plug out before i drained and thats as far as i got. its the square head and seems frozen. can see where its been messed with before. rounded a bit. 10mm wrench fits but wont move and afraid to round it even more. soaked it with penetrant oil for now. should i put some heat on it?

Thanks

You don't want to use a wrench here. You want the get the correct square socket, and then possibly use with a breaker bar. The factory size plugs are I believe 10mm, but
the replacement ones I got from DGo are 7/16th.