Rear wheel bearing clunk

[vwdmc16]

I have had a similar issue with my left rear bearing, I've tried three different bearings and a few different Loctite sleeve locking compound. Even shimming metal between the bearing and housing. Nothing is really worked.

[todd1561]

Ah bummer. Do you remember how long (miles) the bearing compound lasted before it failed? Or did it never work? I’m surprised the shims didn’t work, my understanding was that’s the ultimate solution assuming you could make the shims out of a hard enough steel. Something like aluminum wouldn’t cut it.

For what it’s worth these are the bearings I used: https://www.deloreango.com/us/rear-h...l-bearing.html
As I noted earlier these were significantly more difficult to install (I consider this a good thing) compared to how easy it was to remove the stock ones. I measured the new bearings to be 0.1mm larger than the stock. I wouldn’t be surprised if this is a significant factor to these bearings staying put (assuming they do!).

[r00b]

I had a similar clunk in the rear. When I did my frame off I found the shock bush was deteriorated and allowed for movement and that the hole for the shock had elongated, also it had worn about half way threw the threaded rod on the shock where it was rubbing on the frame. After a stainless frame and new shocks, no more clunk.

[MrChocky]

I had a similar clunk in the rear. When I did my frame off I found the shock bush was deteriorated and allowed for movement and that the hole for the shock had elongated, also it had worn about half way threw the threaded rod on the shock where it was rubbing on the frame. After a stainless frame and new shocks, no more clunk.

I'm all for this upgrade, but this has got to rate as one of the most expensive repairs of 2022!

[r00b]

Easy to check if that's your problem. You don't have to get a new frame, just have the hole repaired if it is.

[David T]

Easy to check if that's your problem. You don't have to get a new frame, just have the hole repaired if it is.

If the hole for the shock is distorted the fix is to have a large washer welded over the hole. While you are at it check the other side too. Often when this happens it is because the shock is bad but it also happens when those rubber bushings go bad. If you do have to replace the shock "good Practice" is to do both front shocks.

[dmcindiana]

I think this is a fairly common problem with our cars, my car has had the issue ever since I bought it in 2005 and I've seen threads pop up from time to time about it. It's the problem where you turn one way and one or both wheel bearings shift slightly in the rear hub carrier until you turn the opposite direction and they bang back to the other side. The sound is quite loud. I've heard of a couple solutions proposed over the years. When I spoke to Don Stegar about it a long time ago he mentioned they used to machine shims to take up the slack but the shims are not easy to produce. I think it was Rob Grady that once suggested using red loctite, but apparently it gives way after a while. After some research I came upon Loctite 609, which is a specialized bearing retaining formula specifically for this purpose. It's green in color. It seems like a better choice over regular red threadlocker. I installed my new bearings with it and have been clunk free for the first time in 17 years. Time will tell if it'll hold up but so far so good after 100 miles. Just an FYI for anyone looking for a possible solution.

Here's a link to the product https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BCDYD...roduct_details

Todd, been reading thru this thread and I appreciate all the advice. Want to be totally clear on something. There are no new bearings out there that are going to solve the problem of what is basically a flaw with the location of the snap ring groove, correct? It's a just a flaw we all live with and the extra stay-put solutions just have to go along with bearing installation?

Which bearing did you use that was a much better fit?

If I know my bearings themselves are fine, any reason I couldn't just find a shop that will fab shims and get those added without replacing the bearings?

Also, can I get away with local drives for the rest of this driving season without damaging the hub or is it an extremely stupid idea to keep driving with all that banging going on? --Danny

[todd1561]

That's correct, as far as I know none of the vendors provide a different bearing that specifically addresses this issue. If you know of a machine shop in your area that can produce the shims it couldn't hurt to give that a try. But from what I understand the thickness of the shims can vary and would probably need to be measured at each hub to produce the shim properly. You'd also need to ensure the bearing is completely pressed into and bottomed out in the hub carrier before you take that measurement. I don't know how you'd do that with the outboard drive shaft still installed. I suppose you could do a hard left turn until you hear the clunk, measure the left side. Then do a hard right turn until you hear the clunk and measure the right side

The bearings I used are the ones I linked to above from DeLorean Go. https://www.deloreango.com/us/rear-h...l-bearing.html I did note upon installation that they were a MUCH tighter fit to press in compared to removing the old ones. Maybe it was that alone that's kept me clunk free for the last year, hard to say.

As far as I know there's no danger in just leaving it alone, plenty of these cars have been clunking around for decades to no ill-effect.

This all assumes whatever problem you're having is the same issue I started this thread about. There's no shortage of things on a delorean that can go clunk, but this one's pretty distinctive.

[dmcindiana]

Re your last note, you?re right to point that out. Another poster was describing a sound he was getting as someone smacking the firewall with a piece of wood. Very close to what I?m getting but even more accurately, it?s like there?s a heavy object tied with a string to the inside of the pontoon behind my left shoulder flopping around, but not all the time. I get it in turns but I do also get it just going straight from a stop. He said in his case it was fiberglass seam separation at the bottom of the vertical fiberglass. I checked my fiberglass and it looks good. Everything is secure in the pontoon. Shock bushings are old and crusty but they?re holding up. No metal on metal. That?s why the bearing seems likely. The combo of the DGo bearings and the 609 is sounding like a winner. Again, great advice.

[todd1561]

Hmm I don't think your noise is the bearing noise being discussed in this thread. This problem is very distinct and it's basically impossible you'd hear it when moving in a straight line. It will generally only happen when making harsh turns and then you'll hear 1-2 bangs depending on if one or both bearings shifted. You then won't hear a noise again until you make a harsh turn in the OPPOSITE direction as the bearing(s) shift to the opposite side. Something just 'flopping around' is definitely something else. I just don't want to see you spending a bunch of time and money chasing the wrong noise.

Todd