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Thread: Door replacement questions.

  1. #11
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    I got the fixed glass out. Turns out I didn't need any special tools. It appears that when the glass was installed it was put into position, a few metal tabs were riveted to the door to hold the glass in place, and then a large bead of sealant applied between the edge of the glass and the sides of the area where the glass sits. There wasn't much sealant between the glass and the surface the glass sits on top of. After drilling out the rivets and removing the tabs I was able to grab the exposed sealant with pliers and pull it out in mostly one long strip. Then with a gentle push the window came out.

    Is there any reason not to reinstall it the same way?

  2. #12
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    hi

    you are talking about the aluminum division channel that goes in between both pieces of glass??? if so later cars have an actual seal around that piece..

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by painterdave72 View Post
    you are talking about the aluminum division channel that goes in between both pieces of glass??? if so later cars have an actual seal around that piece..
    No. That piece I'm leaving attached to the fixed glass. I'm talking about how the fixed glass is attached to the door.

  4. #14
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    gotcha... its just urethaned to the door...

  5. #15
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    New door is on the car. I now have to install all the door interior bits. But while I was reinstalling the torsion bar it occurred to me....

    Ever since I replaced the front door hinge years ago (and probably before that and I never noticed) the torsion bar would sit right up against the rear hinge. I had a plastic zip tie in between to prevent metal on metal rubbing. But if I put a washer between one side of the torsion bar plate and the roof box...
    IMG_20221129_224450.jpg
    there is now plenty of clearance between the torsion bar and the hinge.
    IMG_20221129_224515.jpg
    Any opinions on whether or not it's safe to leave it like that?

  6. #16
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    Don't adjust the torsion bar until all of the parts of the door are installed. On cars where the torsion bar rubs the hinge I use a 2" X 3" piece of rubber from an old inner tube between the bar and the hinge. You do NOT want that torsion bar to get scratched! I don't like that washer because if you adjust the torsion bar it is going to be hard to put that washer back.
    David Teitelbaum

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason View Post
    New door is on the car. I now have to install all the door interior bits. But while I was reinstalling the torsion bar it occurred to me....

    Ever since I replaced the front door hinge years ago (and probably before that and I never noticed) the torsion bar would sit right up against the rear hinge. I had a plastic zip tie in between to prevent metal on metal rubbing. But if I put a washer between one side of the torsion bar plate and the roof box...
    IMG_20221129_224450.jpg
    there is now plenty of clearance between the torsion bar and the hinge.
    IMG_20221129_224515.jpg
    Any opinions on whether or not it's safe to leave it like that?
    i would not recommend installing a washer like this. You are essentially bending the torsion bar to make it clear the rear hinge. While it is no longer touching the hinge, it is not necessarily better off.
    For especially problematic cars before i have ground a fish mouth in the hinge where the torsion bar passes. Does not take much... I would first look at your roof box. If it is lifting the torsion bar can come in contact with things it should not.

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  8. #18
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    On the "new" door, the holes for attaching the crossmember (108319) are significantly smaller, and the screws don't fit. And one of the holes in the middle is missing. Is this normal? Are you expected to drill out the holes? As far as I can tell the old screws are the correct size, #12.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason View Post
    On the "new" door, the holes for attaching the crossmember (108319) are significantly smaller, and the screws don't fit. And one of the holes in the middle is missing. Is this normal? Are you expected to drill out the holes? As far as I can tell the old screws are the correct size, #12.
    They were probably undersized on purpose when manufactured. Middle one maybe missing so that it could be drilled when the door was assembled. that's my guess. I wouldn't be shy about drilling that one but be careful not to upsize the other ones too much.

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