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Thread: Gas Flap Hood Corners Too High

  1. #1
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    Gas Flap Hood Corners Too High

    For years my car's hood has never sit like it should at the corners. I've tried different hood seals and positions, etc.

    Is this a hood issue, or is it simply a body tub shape issue? I'm VIN 831 with a textured body...




    If it's a hood issue, is there a way to reshape it without damaging?

    If it's a body tub issue, where should I sand?
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

  2. #2
    DMC Timeless's Avatar
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  3. #3
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    As I said in first post, seal is fine and I've tried every adjustment possible.
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

  4. #4
    Junior Member poidog's Avatar
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    Your hood latch probably needs to be lowered.

    https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1...tch-adjustment

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by poidog View Post
    Your hood latch probably needs to be lowered.

    https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1...tch-adjustment
    First thing I ever did on the car. Didn?t help.
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

  6. #6
    Junior Member poidog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 81dmc View Post
    First thing I ever did on the car. Didn?t help.
    I'm assuming then you tried adjusting your bumper stops too?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 81dmc View Post
    First thing I ever did on the car. Didn?t help.
    On most cars you have to enlarge the holes of the latch so you can get more adjustment and move the latch lower. Lots to do there. Increase the spring tension inside the latch (shorten the small spring) so the hood "pops" up so you don't need 2 hands to open the hood. Get a back-up cable installed so if the main cable doesn't work, you can still get the hood open. Adjust so the rear corners are just slightly low. Use the bump stops to bring the corners back up level with the fenders (keeps the corners from shaking while you drive). Make sure the bump stops are aligned so they will get captured in case of a front end collision so the hood doesn't decapitate the occupants. Lubricate the hinges, I have seen them completely rust out. Inspect the cable right at the release handle, the cable gets bent every time you use the handle and eventually the cable breaks right there. If you see it fraying get it replaced. Make sure the loop on the hood lines up and goes smoothly into the center of the latch. On some cars it rubs hard on the side of the latch and I have seen the hoops almost worn through. Lubricate the latch.
    David Teitelbaum

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    On most cars you have to enlarge the holes of the latch so you can get more adjustment and move the latch lower. Lots to do there. Increase the spring tension inside the latch (shorten the small spring) so the hood "pops" up so you don't need 2 hands to open the hood. Get a back-up cable installed so if the main cable doesn't work, you can still get the hood open. Adjust so the rear corners are just slightly low. Use the bump stops to bring the corners back up level with the fenders (keeps the corners from shaking while you drive). Make sure the bump stops are aligned so they will get captured in case of a front end collision so the hood doesn't decapitate the occupants. Lubricate the hinges, I have seen them completely rust out. Inspect the cable right at the release handle, the cable gets bent every time you use the handle and eventually the cable breaks right there. If you see it fraying get it replaced. Make sure the loop on the hood lines up and goes smoothly into the center of the latch. On some cars it rubs hard on the side of the latch and I have seen the hoops almost worn through. Lubricate the latch.
    Um.

    If I pull the latch down anymore the hood won't close. The center is tight again the body, but the corners are not. Trying to figure out if there a way to bend hood back not shape, or if it?s better to sand the lip of the body tub near the latch so it closes further.
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

  9. #9
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 81dmc View Post
    Um.

    If I pull the latch down anymore the hood won't close. The center is tight again the body, but the corners are not. Trying to figure out if there a way to bend hood back not shape, or if it?s better to sand the lip of the body tub near the latch so it closes further.
    I have the same problem. My edges are not pushing on the stops but the center is very tight.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I have the same problem. My edges are not pushing on the stops but the center is very tight.
    The fitment on the early cars was not as good as the later cars. Don't try bending the hood. Maybe sanding the fiberglass tub so the hood can close more is the way to go. The other possibility is to raise the fenders with some washers a little to meet the corners of the hood. But then the fenders may not line up well with the doors. Getting things to line up is all about compromises. Sometimes you must be satisfied with "good enough". Or maybe a thinner hood seal?
    David Teitelbaum

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