Washer locations, and the changing of trailing arm bushings?

[rjd2]

Hi all-two questions here on my slow rebuilding of the suspension:

1-control arm/suspension washers. I looked thru the WSM for diagrams showing where washers should be, and saw no diagrams. some of it is obvous-at the nuts for example-but I also recall some of the control arms being seated fairly tight; I can't recall where there may be washers that seat between the inner side of the control arms, and the frame mounts. some cars they want this REALLY tight. is there a resource for that?

2-rear trailing arm bushings. i have the bushings themselves, and the rear hubs are installed. is there a safe/easy way to do these? is it simple as put the arm on a jack stand, and swap the bushing out? thanks for the help!!!

[Rich]

Hi all-two questions here on my slow rebuilding of the suspension:

1-control arm/suspension washers. I looked thru the WSM for diagrams showing where washers should be, and saw no diagrams. some of it is obvous-at the nuts for example-but I also recall some of the control arms being seated fairly tight; I can't recall where there may be washers that seat between the inner side of the control arms, and the frame mounts. some cars they want this REALLY tight. is there a resource for that?

2-rear trailing arm bushings. i have the bushings themselves, and the rear hubs are installed. is there a safe/easy way to do these? is it simple as put the arm on a jack stand, and swap the bushing out? thanks for the help!!!

By now you might have spotted more sections about the rear susp. in the WSM.

Question 1- Fig. 8 on the page K:05:02 of the WSM shows the parts blowup. For the ID of of each item look at the DMCH online parts diagram for that subsection. And then read Bonus Info 1 below about the nuts not shown in their diagrams or the WSM. They say to be careful about the order of removal.

Question 2- Removal/replacement is generally as you say. Section K:06:01 of the WSM tells how to do it correctly, aside from the extra nuts. It's much easier on a lift than on jack stands, however.

Bonus info 1 - Read the DMCH Knowledgebase article on the topic.
Bonus info 2 - Rear toe-in instructions start on WSM K:08:01 Torque specs for the rear susp are on K:09:01.

If you care to go the easy way: any decent alignment shop should have no trouble with the job if you have all the parts for them.

Another hint, as noted in the WSM: count the quantity of alignment shims that come off each side and put them back as you found them. It wouldn't hurt to prep for the job by buying a few extra shims in case you take the opportunity to measure/adjust the rear toe while you're at it.

[rjd2]

great-thanks! the car has low miles-under 6k. the front and rear control arm bushings did not look bad; alas i still changed them. the trailing arm bushings don't look bad; i may leave them in place. after posting about the washers, i did realize the diagrams on the DMC parts site would probably list everything i needed. thanks!

[82DMC12]

great-thanks! the car has low miles-under 6k. the front and rear control arm bushings did not look bad; alas i still changed them. the trailing arm bushings don't look bad; i may leave them in place. after posting about the washers, i did realize the diagrams on the DMC parts site would probably list everything i needed. thanks!

If you are talking about the front upper control arms, the parts manual diagram is incorrect. The quantities are correct but the illustrations are not correct.

[rjd2]

If you are talking about the front upper control arms, the parts manual diagram is incorrect. The quantities are correct but the illustrations are not correct.

yes, that's what i'm currently working on. for the upper fronts, there's two large thick fender washers that fit perfectly between the frame mounts and the inner lip of the control arm. so i'm pretty confident in the snugness there. the lower control arms have more play with no shims between the bushing sleeve and the frame mount than i would expect; i recall there being some play there when it came off. maybe the sway bar takes up the slack. it just doesnt feel like i would expect, but i obviously biffed it by not reseating the washers on the control arm bolts as they came out.

[rjd2]

Upon further inspection of the parts diagram on the DMC site, I'll ask my question another way...

from my read of the diagrams, it would appears that on the front AND rear bushings, there are no shims to be installed between the actual surface of the bushings, and the hub or frame mounting locations? or do I have that wrong? I made a diagram with green lines indicating the location I am referring to on the rear suspension; the same concept applies to the front control arms, and how they mount to the frame. If I grab my lower control arm and rock it back and forth, there's play at the frame mounts. doesnt seem right, but I also tried to get a shim between the bushing and frame, and couldn't pull it off. thanks for the help!

[82DMC12]

yes, that's what i'm currently working on. for the upper fronts, there's two large thick fender washers that fit perfectly between the frame mounts and the inner lip of the control arm. so i'm pretty confident in the snugness there. the lower control arms have more play with no shims between the bushing sleeve and the frame mount than i would expect; i recall there being some play there when it came off. maybe the sway bar takes up the slack. it just doesnt feel like i would expect, but i obviously biffed it by not reseating the washers on the control arm bolts as they came out.

The front upper control arm is supposed to go together like this:

Bolt head - Thick washer - bushing - thin washer x2 - frame - thin washer x2 - bushing - thick washer - nut

The parts diagram is wrong but the "quantity required" is correct for each piece of hardware.

There are NO washers between the bushing and frame on the lower control arm. When you tighten the lower control arm to frame bolt, it will close the frame around the bushing and all slack will disappear!

[82DMC12]

Upon further inspection of the parts diagram on the DMC site, I'll ask my question another way...

from my read of the diagrams, it would appears that on the front AND rear bushings, there are no shims to be installed between the actual surface of the bushings, and the hub or frame mounting locations? or do I have that wrong? I made a diagram with green lines indicating the location I am referring to on the rear suspension; the same concept applies to the front control arms, and how they mount to the frame. If I grab my lower control arm and rock it back and forth, there's play at the frame mounts. doesnt seem right, but I also tried to get a shim between the bushing and frame, and couldn't pull it off. thanks for the help!

You are correct, there are NO shims placed in the green lines you made on the diagram. On the rear carrier, lower mount, there are supposed to be metal bushings pressed into the holes where the large bolts run through. I assume you still have those installed?

The upper and lower links should slip into the rear carrier pretty snugly, like a perfect fit. If they flop in and seem loose, I wonder what bushings you are using? I just replaced all of my bushings and used DMCMW bushings (non-poly) for those locations.

[rjd2]

ok, great-thanks folks. then this is actually easier than i was assuming. the only thing i have wrong is the front uppers. i'll move the large washers to the OUTER portion of the frame mounts, and find the 2x thin washers that live directly on either side of the bushing inner sleeves. yes, my rear arms have the proper inner sleeves, and don't rock back and forth if i grab them. i havent torqued anything down, since i wanted to make sure my assembly is correct. thanks!!