Digital door lock module unobtainium?

[DMC-Dave]

I think I missed the party?all these options are not available.

https://store.delorean.com/digital%2...0module-1.html - out of stock since forever?

https://www.deloreango.com/en/new-door-lock-module.html - dead link (Google)

https://www.deloreango.com/us/remote...l-locking.html - requires OEM (or non-existent replacement) module

https://www.delorean-parts.com/produ...em-auto-trans/ - out of stock/requires OEM (or non-existent replacement) module

My OEM currently works fine but would like to go more modern, I have this fear of being locked in/out. Maybe something new is just around the bend?

[mhanch]

Dave Mckeen might have some of his units left. I got one and it works like a champ

[WHO1DMC]

Dave Mckeen might have some of his units left. I got one and it works like a champ

I have one of Dave's units as well. There extremely well priced and small enough to fit in the original case. There's spots on the board to solder in a off the shelf keyless entry.
Dave works through this email. [email protected]


Dave B.

[Rich]

I think I missed the party? all these options are not available.

I see what you see online.

Did both of those 2 vendors confirm to you they will no longer (never again) sell their solid state door lock modules?

Or is it only a lead time issue for either of them?

[Bitsyncmaster]

A lot of the vendor problems are finding connectors and pins to mate with the stock harness. I'm always on the lookout for some connector pairs that could be used instead. Problem is pins need to use a crimper owners can buy ($). Also needs to have pins that can be used with 14 AWG or smaller wire.

I can sell my door lock unit without the connector if you have or can find a connector. Or you can butt splice the wires.

[David T]

There are ways to make the OEM module more reliable and draw less power. There are several articles that detail how to fuse it, replace some components so it draws less stand-by current, and making the relays last longer. If you still have the OEM module and do not have any of these mods, you should unplug it. Everyone should also understand that if you have damaged solenoids, or the doors are not adjusted and closing properly, getting a solid-state module, or doing any of the mods to an OEM module WILL NOT make things work.

[Timeless]

A lot of the vendor problems are finding connectors and pins to mate with the stock harness. I'm always on the lookout for some connector pairs that could be used instead. Problem is pins need to use a crimper owners can buy ($). Also needs to have pins that can be used with 14 AWG or smaller wire.

Maybe Waytek and/or Del City have connectors and pins.

[MrChocky]

There are ways to make the OEM module more reliable and draw less power. There are several articles that detail how to fuse it, replace some components so it draws less stand-by current, and making the relays last longer. If you still have the OEM module and do not have any of these mods, you should unplug it. Everyone should also understand that if you have damaged solenoids, or the doors are not adjusted and closing properly, getting a solid-state module, or doing any of the mods to an OEM module WILL NOT make things work.

I'm keeping my OEM one connected just so I can say I'm not taking David T's life advice.

[David T]

I'm keeping my OEM one connected just so I can say I'm not taking David T's life advice.

At least put a 10 amp fast blow in-line fuse into that big red wire going to the module. That way when the relay contacts weld together, that fuse will blow so you can get out of the car. Or not, your choice.

[MrChocky]

At least put a 10 amp fast blow in-line fuse into that big red wire going to the module. That way when the relay contacts weld together, that fuse will blow so you can get out of the car. Or not, your choice.

Typical David T advice - high on anxiety, low on specifics, just broad statements.