Thanks for the advice everyone. Definitely interested David in your module, will reach out about purchasing. I don't mind swapping out the connector.
Posts: 18
Thanks for the advice everyone. Definitely interested David in your module, will reach out about purchasing. I don't mind swapping out the connector.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
I was pretty specific on the minimum you should do to continue to use the OEM module. The purpose of the fuse is so when the relay contacts weld themselves together the fuse will blow instead of burning up your solenoids, killing your battery, and preventing you from unlocking your doors. This is what happened to Johnny Carson and a lot of others. The circuit breaker that is in the circuit is too big and won't open but the fuse (10 amps) will. If you require further explanation there are several write-up and posts that are more detailed. BTW, if the 10 amp fuse blows but the relays are still working it means either one or both of your solenoids is (are) already burnt. There are write-ups on how rewind them or replace them with actuators. For most the Central Locking System isn't worth the hassle so they will just unplug the module and lock-unlock the doors individually. It can take a LOT of work to make the CLS work. Both doors MUST be adjusted correctly and that is a fiddly procedure including adjusting all 4 door lock anchors so all 4 locks achieve 2nd locking position. That's why some owners will buy a solid-state module hoping it will "fix" everything and be disappointed when it doesn't.
David Teitelbaum
Posts: 18
Posts: 605
Location: Somewhere in the Ford Galaxy
Posts: 123
My VIN: 1561
Seems pretty specific to me, right down to the fuse size and type. And it is a legitimate issue that affected many cars early on from what I understand. I'm not sure why Dave gets so much flak around here. He's been around longer than most and knows a few things. He even provided some insight to me on the DML 19 years ago when I was buying my car.
Todd
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 227
My VIN: ******* 01860 - Legend TT 06068 - VQ35 SC
Club(s): (DMA)
I also have some options for repair or replacing the door lock modules.
https://malevy-dmc.blogspot.com/2022...rean-lock.html
Let me know how I can help. Connectors have been a problem for me too. You can buy them, but they are expensive.
__________________________________________________ ____________________
Got any new Purflux oil filters? I may want to buy them.
Learn about Vin 01860 with a Legend Industries engine: https://malevy-dmc.blogspot.com/2022...oDeLorean.html
I can fix your Craig W460 radio: https://malevy-dmc.blogspot.com/2022...te-player.html
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,083
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Updating for the community:
Houston's module is back in stock now.
Link to Digital Door Lock Module listing
PS, strongly recommend the remote keyless entry upgrade
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
The problem I have with key less entry is the FOB receiver draws about 15 ma. all the time. Not bad for a daily driver but if your car sits for months, not good. Also it would not be nice to have a second FOB on my key chain. You would need a separate key chain when driving the D.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Hi Dave, in case you decide to modify your original DLM, here is a thread that covers this.
https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1...-and-solenoids
Since I did this, my door locks have been bulletproof.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)