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Thread: Stage 1 exhaust installation questions

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    My VIN:    03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car

    Stage 1 exhaust installation questions

    I hope to be installing my new, used stage 1 exhaust this next week (all I know is its a SS version). I had a few thoughts and questions...

    It sounds like most of the systems allow the use of a Hervey aluminum heatshield using the original mounts, but perhaps not with the magnaflow - thoughts or advice here?

    Do the headers use the same exhaust studs, the alternate locations, or both?

    If/when I install new studs - I was wondering about protecting them long term from corrosion. Once the nuts are installed, how about coating the remaining stud in copper grease and then fitting a short length of silicon hose over the remaining section of stud - any thoughts or better suggestions?

    Are the cats easily replaced? I need to pass CA emissions here, if I need replacement cats down the line, any thoughts on where to get them?

    I've read that the crossover pipe comes out fairly easily if I remove the passenger side drive axle temporarily - do I have that right?

    Any other tips or concerns?

    Tom

  2. #2
    Nothing witty here lest it offend
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTait View Post
    I've read that the crossover pipe comes out fairly easily if I remove the passenger side drive axle temporarily - do I have that right?

    Tom
    Yes, and was surprisingly easy. You don't hear that often!

  3. #3
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTait View Post
    I hope to be installing my new, used stage 1 exhaust this next week (all I know is its a SS version). I had a few thoughts and questions...

    It sounds like most of the systems allow the use of a Hervey aluminum heatshield using the original mounts, but perhaps not with the magnaflow - thoughts or advice here?

    Do the headers use the same exhaust studs, the alternate locations, or both?

    If/when I install new studs - I was wondering about protecting them long term from corrosion. Once the nuts are installed, how about coating the remaining stud in copper grease and then fitting a short length of silicon hose over the remaining section of stud - any thoughts or better suggestions?

    Are the cats easily replaced? I need to pass CA emissions here, if I need replacement cats down the line, any thoughts on where to get them?

    I've read that the crossover pipe comes out fairly easily if I remove the passenger side drive axle temporarily - do I have that right?

    Any other tips or concerns?

    Tom
    1. Stage I SS w/ original version muffler (Same body size as Magnaflow) has its own heat shield attached to the muffler. The Hervey shield will not fit.

    2. The Manifold flanges allow the "option" to use all 24 stud locations. (Not required) The Idea was to use the extra stud locations in the event you had broken studs and did not want to mess with removing them. Using the opposite locations would suffice.
    3. The replacement/new studs are steel and will rust eventually. About the only way to prevent rust from forming on the threads Is to not have exposed threads. There is a stud kit available from the UK that uses tall Brass nuts that will keep the threads covered. Brass nuts will not rust too the steel studs. The use of a silicone hose would likely melt or cook to the threads. silicone rubber is only rated to about 350 deg. High Temp Red 400-450 Deg. Exhaust gases can easily reach 1200 deg or more in our application. Turbo systems 1600 or more.

    4. It would be highly unlikely that you would need Cat replacements. Those parts are not available separately. (The Stage I Kits were made as complete systems without individual spares availability). In the rare case you might need a cat you would have to cut the Cats from the pipes and weld in a replacement cat. Or see If DMCH could the manufacture make replacement components for you.

    Tip : I recommend using the one piece Volvo style manifold gaskets that PJ Grady sells. They are virtually Blow-out proof.
    Last edited by DMC5180; 10-16-2011 at 01:02 AM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  4. #4
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    Good Info, thanks.

    I happen to have a really good metric specialty shop a few miles away - I'll take a new stud in and see what the longest coupling nuts they have are.

  5. #5
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    M7 x 1.00 is an uncommon size. Good luck. The ones in the UK are Custom made from Brass hex stock. Here are the options to choose from. FYI there may be one or studs that you won't be able to install Long Nuts on because of clearance issues with the pipe.

    http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/for...hp?f=66&t=1473
    Last edited by DMC5180; 10-16-2011 at 02:41 AM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #6
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    My VIN:    03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car

    Failing the coupling nuts, wouldn't copper grease and a series of stainless nuts do the same thing?

  7. #7
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    A little discouraged...

    I've had all the exhaust apart before, but that was while doing head gaskets so I had good access from the top too. I got the car up on stands this am and went under to check the condition of the connections, spray treat the nuts, and start pulling. Seeing it just from below I decided to wait till I had access to a lift. It just looked like too much of a pain in the butt sliding around underneath wishing I could see and reach everything.

    Anyone want to sell me on doing it without the lift?

    When I do get it up on one, am I going to be able to get the manifolds off from below? The forward nuts on the manifolds look totally buried. Even if i get it all off from below, will the stage 1 go in without stripping out the entire top of the engine?

    Unfortunately the local shop where I have free lift access bought a bunch of inventory from a competitor that went out of business and the lift is blocked indefinately.

    Any idea what the "book" labor is on swapping the exhaust over is?

  8. #8
    Formally hmm252000
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    I installed my exhaust in my garage using nothing but jack stands. All work was done from below (I can't recall doing anything from above the engine at any point). The worst part for me was getting the cross-over pipe removed as the nuts were pretty well seized on (all but one bolt snapped off). It took lots of different socket extensions, but I was able to get to all of them from under the car. I also removed the rear tires as that helped me slide under the car at different angles for best access.

  9. #9
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    My VIN:    03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car

    Well - darn - now I'm gonna have to work. I don't have the 9 bills to have DMCCA put it in for me, and you say its annoying but doable.

    Mine should be easier, as everything was apart about two years ago and nothing looked terminally rusted up...

    Any other tips appreciated.

    T

  10. #10
    Senior Member zimvsdib's Avatar
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    I purchased a used original stage 1 kit. i plan on painting it today installing it monday.


    Does anyone have and advice when it comes to installation on this? I don't have any instructions just a bunch of parts, and i hope i have all the parts.

    I will be without a lift for this project.

    Everyone seems to say that the bolts break on them. Is there anything to spray on them to help them release better?

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