Electrical Connection Location

[Ricker]

Does anybody know physically where the electrical connection is as circled on the attached partial wiring diagram? I'm guessing it is under the "T" top panel? Is there anything that shows the location of all the connection locations? Thanks!

[NJP548]

Does anybody know physically where the electrical connection is as circled on the attached partial wiring diagram? I'm guessing it is under the "T" top panel? Is there anything that shows the location of all the connection locations? Thanks!

That's not exactly an electrical connection. It is just showing where the wiring for the circuit leads to.

If you refer to the diagram on this page (https://store.delorean.com/parts/ele...g-harness.html), you will see where the door harnesses connect to the B Post Harness.

If you explain a little bit about what you're trying to do, I'm sure you will get the help you need.

Thanks.

-Nick

[Ricker]

That's not exactly an electrical connection. It is just showing where the wiring for the circuit leads to.

If you refer to the diagram on this page (https://store.delorean.com/parts/ele...g-harness.html), you will see where the door harnesses connect to the B Post Harness.

If you explain a little bit about what you're trying to do, I'm sure you will get the help you need.

Thanks.

-Nick

I am trying to get everything working including courtesy lights. The one in the engine compartment no longer work but it did before. It has no voltage to it. Also, the two courtesy lights in the passenger compartment work but one gets 12 volts, the other gets 4 volts depending on the doors open or closed. I can't help it; I'm trying to get everything working for at least 1 day. The glove box and truck lights work fine.

[WHO1DMC]

I am trying to get everything working including courtesy lights. The one in the engine compartment no longer work but it did before. It has no voltage to it. Also, the two courtesy lights in the passenger compartment work but one gets 12 volts, the other gets 4 volts depending on the doors open or closed. I can't help it; I'm trying to get everything working for at least 1 day. The glove box and truck lights work fine.

Engine compartment light could be a switch problem or a ground. Power comes from the black church connection in the engine bay. The interior lights could be a diode problem. It's one of the three diodes that are blue red or black. The diode module can be easily disassembled with no cutting to replace the diode inside. I had to do it for one of mine. It's a one amp diode it only cost a few cents versus $9 from DMCH. Good time to get a soldering iron if you don't have one.



Dave B.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

[Ricker]

Checked the 3 diodes. All checked out at 0.55X. I narrowed down the issue which is only with the front and back courtesy lights in the door open/close position to turn on and off. In this position for both with the door open the back one is bright (12 volts) and the front one dull (4 volts). Close the door (either one) and the lights switch brightness. Remove the white timer relay and the same thing happens. It seems the power somehow comes from a different point. I'm not an electric guy and I can't see on the electrical schematic how this can occur. The timer relay when in does time out the bright light but not the dull one. Turn the lights to theis desire and they go on without the doors being open. Very strange. Any ideas?

[Bitsyncmaster]

The dome lights get powered by a door switch through two diodes. So there is a bout a 1.5 volt drop across those diodes and hence your dome lights will only see about 11 volts. With the dome unit (the white "relay" thing) it will bypass those two diodes and you should get close to 12.5 volts (battery voltage) on the dome lights.

Both dome lights are hard wired together so if one has less voltage you have a bad wiring connection.

[Ricker]

The dome lights get powered by a door switch through two diodes. So there is a bout a 1.5 volt drop across those diodes and hence your dome lights will only see about 11 volts. With the dome unit (the white "relay" thing) it will bypass those two diodes and you should get close to 12.5 volts (battery voltage) on the dome lights.

Both dome lights are hard wired together so if one has less voltage you have a bad wiring connection.

So, I was going to run a jumper wire between the two interior courtesy lights to test for a bad hard wire. That's when I noticed both light wiring connections (purple, purple/white, black wires) were not terminated at the same place on both lights. Switched them to match and that did the trick!

And the engine courtesy light just needed a new bulb.

Thanks for the help!

[Bitsyncmaster]

So, I was going to run a jumper wire between the two interior courtesy lights to test for a bad hard wire. That's when I noticed both light wiring connections (purple, purple/white, black wires) were not terminated at the same place on both lights. Switched them to match and that did the trick!

And the engine courtesy light just needed a new bulb.

Thanks for the help!

That miss wiring is another common problem I forget about. Glad you got it fixed.