I know the textbook answer but humor me. Has anybody ever installed it without separating the body and frame?
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I know the textbook answer but humor me. Has anybody ever installed it without separating the body and frame?
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Brian
Bluffton, South Carolina
My toys
2019 Dodge Challenger Widebody SCAT Pack
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
1982 Delorean DMC-12
1974 Chevy Suburban
I don't think you'll be able to do it. That pipe has a few bends in it that I don't think you can get up into the hole with the body in the way.
That being said, you can cut out the old metal pipe and replace it with a vendor-supplied flexible fuel line. I did this when I did my frame-off as preventative measure. My hard line was OK but I'd rather have the flexibility (no pun intended) of the flex line for future maintenance.
The flexible line doesn't go out the driver side hole and along the frame. Instead it just runs straight out the back of the frame, along the transmission, and up to the filter.
Andy Lien
VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023
Photography and Backpacking is life.
Was Fargo, ND
Now Kansas City
I guess I'll be the first then. I already had cut the old line out I was using a flex line but I'm trying to make it correct
I've gotten it almost all the way in I just need to figure out a way to get it to rotate 90? so the end will go through the whole next to the accumulator That's the only ticket I've literally had to take everything else out of the way brake lines trailing arm everything
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Brian
Bluffton, South Carolina
My toys
2019 Dodge Challenger Widebody SCAT Pack
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
1982 Delorean DMC-12
1974 Chevy Suburban
Yeah starting to think this might not be possible......it's so close but can't get it into the accumulator bay
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Brian
Bluffton, South Carolina
My toys
2019 Dodge Challenger Widebody SCAT Pack
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
1982 Delorean DMC-12
1974 Chevy Suburban
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
This here is the key for me. Trying to make it correct AKA right AKA perfect. I'm all for not doing things on the car half assed, but there is a point where good enough is legitmately good enough. Trying to get it perfect can cost you time, money and sanity. I speak from experience in all of the above. The flexible line, the hard line still hanging up in there, the time, money and risk of losing your sanity.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Yeah I mean the engine and transmission are already out but I'm trying to buy it BACK together not take it apart further lol
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Brian
Bluffton, South Carolina
My toys
2019 Dodge Challenger Widebody SCAT Pack
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
1982 Delorean DMC-12
1974 Chevy Suburban
Posts: 1,254
Definition of perfect?
If it means stock to you, install the hard line whatever you have to do.
If it means the best driver you can make it, go flex. A modern flex line is just as good as a hard line.
You realize if the first definition applies, you have to have the stock fuel lines at the injectors?
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Unless you are trying for "Concours Quality" no sense beating yourself up. No one but you will care, potential buyers would never see it. But it is one of the things that can differentiate a true concours car from a driver. If your car is a high mileage beater it is ridiculous to try to make it concours or "stock". There are just too many things that would need to be done to get to that level. This is why such a "time capsule" original car can demand such a high price (and there are not many). First and foremost you should make the car a reliable driver. Once you go down the "rabbit hole" of perfection it gets very time consuming and expensive. If you start separating the body from the frame you will have a LOT of other "While you are in there" stuff to do.
David Teitelbaum
You can replace the nylon fuel hose for the injectors yourself for a small fraction of the price the lines for the vendors will cost you. They're just as good as when new, if you want to reuse the rubber hose that's over the line or use something new is up to you. Then they'll be good for another 40 years. The fuel lines I see from the vendors look good and also they are way overkill for the application, they'll work no problem but you'll be paying a high price for them.
You can also get nylon fuel hose with a rubber exterior molded on, that's what I'm going to replace all my hard lines with when the time comes. Unfortunately I haven't seen nylon hose with the rubber exterior molded on in the size and thickness we need for the fuel injector lines.
They nylon fuel hose you need would run you around $20~$30. Using the vendors lines is like you having a hole in you're aluminum boat and you decide to have someone else patch it with a piece of inconel. Yeah it will do the job, but you could have fixed it yourself just as well with aluminum for much cheaper.
Told ya :-)
If you have the engine and transmission out, it wouldn't be THAT much work to lift the body off the frame just enough so you can get the pipe in... if you really have to!
Here's the checklist!
https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1...l=1#post276162
Andy Lien
VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023
Photography and Backpacking is life.
Was Fargo, ND
Now Kansas City