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Thread: Hardware & Integration

  1. #1
    Not dead yet, also Admin. sean's Avatar
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    Hardware & Integration

    Content to Come

    The attached PDF document contains information on the various hardware components needed in the conversion over to EFI. It is by no means 100% complete, but it's a good start. Suggestions on how to supplement or improve it are welcome.

    Throughout this thread, please feel free to post pictures and specifications of sensors, wiring, throttle bodies, manifolds, logic units, throttle spools, relays, fuel components, etc. Links to vendors or other hardware related points. Software & tuning has its own thread as do individual car histories. Let's try to keep this as a reference area.
    Attached Files
    eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
    K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955

  2. #2
    Back to the Omnipresent! Spittybug's Avatar
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    Fuel injector leads

    FYI, the wiring harness that you can buy from DIYautotune does not include the + leads for the fuel injectors since these don't run back to the MS unit. That means you must make your own and tie the - into the harness, the + to power.

    Here's the way I have attached the injector pigtails to some good wiring. It makes for a nice, clean connection that doesn't need looming unless you are anal about those things.
    Just be careful and plan ahead as to when to thread the shrink tubing onto the wires or you'll find that you blew it! The step I forgot to photo (duh) was wrapping the individual wires. While I did stagger them and could get away without doing so, I decided to wrap each with that cool silicone wire wrapping tape. It isn't cheap, but boy that stuff sticks to itself great and isn't sticky like electrician's black vinyl tape.

    You'll see more pictures of the installed harness on the stock conversion to EFI thread within this subforum.
    Attached Images
    Owen
    Tour the country and visit breweries through the eyes of our two puppy dogs. http://www.twobrewdogs.com
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  3. #3
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
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    Or you can buy the raw connectors without pigtails, and build the ends directly to your main harness cables. Same caveats apply though, don't screw up. I layed out my harness with zip ties before making the final cuts and attaching the ends. Pic on Monday.
    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

  4. #4
    Senior Member AdmiralSenn's Avatar
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    If you want to add looms, there's a product called Wrap-It (and there's probably a dozen other ones just like it) that's designed to slip over wiring to make it appear like a properly made harness. I tucked the ends of mine into the injector pigtail boots and it looks like it goes there.

    The wrap is really neat, it's something like 440 degrees of material so it wraps all the way around and some extra. Works pretty well and easy to install. I recommend it once the harness is tested and complete to pretty up the engine bay without using that plastic coiled crap.
    Aka Adam S, aka Adam Wright
    1981 DMC-12 #3416, mothballed in preparation for motor swap
    2006 Volvo S60R

  5. #5
    Back to the Omnipresent! Spittybug's Avatar
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    I also loomed my harness with similar material (used inside computer cases), but it wasn't split, so planning ahead to get the right order for the wire splices, looming, connectors and shrink tubing for the junctions was challenging!
    Owen
    Tour the country and visit breweries through the eyes of our two puppy dogs. http://www.twobrewdogs.com
    Help us spread the word! @twobrewdogs on Twitter, twobrewdogs on Facebook.

  6. #6
    Back to the Omnipresent! Spittybug's Avatar
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    Rails and Brackets

    Custom made rails and brackets done. Here are a couple of shots of one rail assembled. Notice the slots in the rail and the bracket. This allows for adjustment in three dimensions; distance from side of manifold, height of rail off injector holes and front to back motion of the rail. Being that all stock setups *should* be identical, this degree of flexibility probably wasn't necessary, but it makes a lot easier when prototyping too. Measuring things "free air" on an engine is tough. Too many variables. The little allen screws are in a threaded hole and will get a drop of Locktite. These allow you to adjust the vertical angle of the bracket by pushing off the side of the manifold. It also adds to the rigidity of the setup since it gives another contact point. The bracket is made to be slightly smaller than 90 degrees, so this little standoff tensions the whole setup. The short angle of the L sits on top of the manifold sides and uses existing tapped holes. Not all of them are equidistant from the sides, that's why there are two slots in the top. One bracket fits all.
    Even without injectors in place, the hanging bracket has essentially no movement (critical!). Hardware is of course stainless. While simple in appearance, there is a lot of machine work that goes into getting them right The slots in the rails alone take a while to cut since they are going through thick material.
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    Owen
    Tour the country and visit breweries through the eyes of our two puppy dogs. http://www.twobrewdogs.com
    Help us spread the word! @twobrewdogs on Twitter, twobrewdogs on Facebook.

  7. #7
    Back to the Omnipresent! Spittybug's Avatar
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    Idle Air Control Valve

    I forgot to write down the part number of the IAC valve that I bought for the prototype. When I went to order the second one (needs to fit the air block, so it must be identical), I got the wrong one. D'oh!

    As we know all too well given the way we cross over parts and do what we can to improve and modify as we go, if you don't know what car it fits, the chain stores are pretty damned useless. I called one of the Ebay stores that carries lots of different ones and got a helpful guy to check a few using my measurements. I've now order it, a AC151 that fits a wide array of Jeeps, 91-95 and 97. Got my fingers crossed.
    Owen
    Tour the country and visit breweries through the eyes of our two puppy dogs. http://www.twobrewdogs.com
    Help us spread the word! @twobrewdogs on Twitter, twobrewdogs on Facebook.

  8. #8
    Back to the Omnipresent! Spittybug's Avatar
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    Vacuum Hoses

    If you go the route of using the stock manifold (see other threads in forum), you need to find an alternative to the cold start valve copper tube as a place to attach your vacuum hoses for charcoal canister purge and crank case vent (oil filler cap). Since the idle air is now being handled with a stepper IAC motor in a custom aluminum block mounted on the W pipes, where to attach vacuum hoses?

    As luck would have it, the brass metering nipples of the copper tube fit into the side of the manifold casting. There are two plugged holes, one on each side, right behind the W pipe. Replace the plugs with the nipples and reconnect the correct hoses. Note that the orifices are of different size, so don't mix them up.
    Owen
    Tour the country and visit breweries through the eyes of our two puppy dogs. http://www.twobrewdogs.com
    Help us spread the word! @twobrewdogs on Twitter, twobrewdogs on Facebook.

  9. #9
    Senior Member AdmiralSenn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spittybug View Post
    Note that the orifices are of different size, so don't mix them up.
    They are?

    Oops. Which one is which? They look the same to me.
    Aka Adam S, aka Adam Wright
    1981 DMC-12 #3416, mothballed in preparation for motor swap
    2006 Volvo S60R

  10. #10
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdmiralSenn View Post
    They are?

    Oops. Which one is which? They look the same to me.
    Yea, same here, I thought mine looked the same when I removed them. Otherwise I would have made a mental note to which one is which!
    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

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