Spittybug #2329 Peugeot 604 manifold custom conversion

[dmc6960]

My radically different cams and compression will likely make my ideal values a bit different from yours. But thanks a TON for that table, it'll be a perfect starting point! I plan to use the accelerometer in my phone as a poor-man's dyno.

[AdmiralSenn]

Once I finish my finals + current work craziness (retail + Christmas = FUN) I will be spending a few days doing my idle controller, then ignition.

Right now my driving days are few and far between and I haven't done more than 15 minutes with VE Analyze live on - too busy going to and fro.

[Spittybug]

Odd event today.... After sitting for about 1/2 hour at the dentist's office, I came out to start the car and it took a few cranking attempts. I thought I had "gone back in time" and had a hot start issue! Very similar symptoms, but then she fired up. That got me thinking; I need to remove the fuel accumulator now that I'm EFI. What I suspect is happening is that the fuel system is losing its pressure via the accumulator and the long cranking is necessary to repressurize it all, including the accumulator itself. It certainly isn't needed, but I didn't think there was any harm in keeping it. I have seen that the gauge on the pressure regulator drops after about 15 minutes, so I know the system isn't holding pressure. I have no visible gasoline leaks anywhere, nor odor, so I think this helps confirm the accumulator as the culprit. It's going to be removed, lowering weight yet again

Even under normal conditions (both before and after EFI), my car has always cranked for about 4-5 sec. before catching. Battery is strong and all grounds good, so I suspect that I just have a relatively weak starter which is believe is original. Any suggestions on an alternative?

So here's the question; what is the generally accepted way to bypass the accumulator? Common the two hoses that go into the one end and blank off the single one that connects to the other end? I suppose it could be the fuel pump check valve too, is there a way to test that?

[Bitsyncmaster]

You would need to pull connections and put a gauge in different locations. Probably pump outlet would be first. Do you have a pressure regulator in the system?

[Spittybug]

You would need to pull connections and put a gauge in different locations. Probably pump outlet would be first. Do you have a pressure regulator in the system?

Pressure regulator is post both fuel rails, right before return line.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Pressure regulator is post both fuel rails, right before return line.

If it's a bypass type, you could pull the return line and see if it leaks after shutdown.

[AdmiralSenn]

Christine does the EXACT SAME THING now. Accumulator was a new (not NOS) install less than 1,000 miles ago. It sucks because she used to fire up the instant the key was bumped - it was seriously impressive.

My next "engine" part is going to be an AN-6 check valve and the pieces to bypass the accumulator. That or buy an internally valved regulator and sell the one I have.

For the starter, you will absolutely not regret an Eagle Premier unit. It's amazing. Smaller, lighter, cheaper, spins faster... it does draw a tad more current so naturally clean and/or upgraded grounds are important.

[Bitsyncmaster]

If I were doing an EFI conversion, I would want to leave the accumulator to smooth the pump pulses and hold pressure. I've seen NOS accumulators fail quickly but a new one should last 10 years. Your even running less pressure than K-jet. I bet your leak is elsewhere. Do you keep the pump running a few seconds after the engine has stopped?

[Spittybug]

Dave, pump primes before starting but shuts down immediately at engine kill. I replaced my accumulator less than 4 years ago with a DMCH unit. NOS I'm sure. I think my game plan is to remove it, test, and if necessary, then replace fuel pump or put in a check valve of some sort.

[DARCOM]

i removed my accumulator, and did a bypass. all i have left is the stock fuel pump and have been debating changing it to one with out a check ball to get rid of the buzz when hot.
my system has never really held pressure except wile running. it leaks past my fuel pressure regulator. but when i bump the starter it fires right up if i have been driving it. now if i have let the car set for a week usually just turn the key to the on position let the pump prime then start the car. when i used to remove my rails they were always full of gas just no pressure, and i assume that the second i turn the key and being that the rails are hot ,fuel will make some pressure wile it evaporates i think i got my megasquirt priming settings just right to work this way.