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Thread: AdmiralSenn (Adam S.) #3416 "Christine" Megasquirt conversion

  1. #31
    Senior Member AdmiralSenn's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    432

    New issues have cropped up (Non-EFI related) that have kept me from doing any real work on the car, but I am driving it around. Now that the spark plugs have cleaned themselves up a bit I can finally start fine tuning.

    I have purchased the PWM IAC kit and the BIP373 coil driver kit so I'll be going full idle and ignition control soon (currently my "idle control" is the throttle stop screw).

    I have also found that adding a check valve to the output line of the fuel system completely obviates the need for the fuel accumulator, so if you don't have a check valve built into your fuel pump, the Aeromotive one on ebay (Aeromotive #15106) works beautifully.

    My accumulator died shortly after the engine fire, so I've been having to prime the pump multiple times to start the car. Last night I started the car and ran it for about a minute. This morning it started right away on the first rotation, just like it used to. So anyone doing a conversion with a bad accumulator, just leave it in there and save yourself the money and hassle. Since I'm using AN -6 lines and fittings it took about two minutes to install. It won't hold fuel pressure but it will keep the lines full; the difference between 45 psi being held in the lines and pressurizing lines already filled is negligible.
    Aka Adam S, aka Adam Wright
    1981 DMC-12 #3416, mothballed in preparation for motor swap
    2006 Volvo S60R

  2. #32
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Houston

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    My VIN:    16113

    Club(s):   (SCDC) (DCUK)

    We're doing the finishing touches on converting my car to EFI. It appears that my accumulator is bad too. I'm wondering if I should install the check valve also.

  3. #33
    Senior Member AdmiralSenn's Avatar
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    I would. It's not perfect - it doesn't hold full pressure - but I found that it drastically reduces the amount of time needed to start the car. Instead of priming 3-5 times and cranking over two or three times, it takes anywhere from 1/4 to 1 1/2 rotations of the motor to start now. That delay has more to do with my ignition and fuel settings, though; I suspect that when I get spark control I can reduce the average time to 1/2 of a rotation.
    Aka Adam S, aka Adam Wright
    1981 DMC-12 #3416, mothballed in preparation for motor swap
    2006 Volvo S60R

  4. #34
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Houston

    Posts:    570

    My VIN:    16113

    Club(s):   (SCDC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by AdmiralSenn View Post
    I would. It's not perfect - it doesn't hold full pressure - but I found that it drastically reduces the amount of time needed to start the car. Instead of priming 3-5 times and cranking over two or three times, it takes anywhere from 1/4 to 1 1/2 rotations of the motor to start now. That delay has more to do with my ignition and fuel settings, though; I suspect that when I get spark control I can reduce the average time to 1/2 of a rotation.
    I'm getting the MS unit tonight with the changes on it to do the full spark. I plan to plug it in and fire up the engine to see how it runs.

  5. #35
    Senior Member AdmiralSenn's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Raaarrghh, the thread lives!

    Since I am sucking it up and paying the machine shop to do my cylinder heads, I am going to ask if they can make a sheet aluminum adapter from the stock throttle body to a 3" intake pipe.

    Should I ask them what the costs would be to make multiples? If there is interest I am willing to have them do it but I will need to take some kind of down payment for each one. I will of course ask them about price per unit.
    Aka Adam S, aka Adam Wright
    1981 DMC-12 #3416, mothballed in preparation for motor swap
    2006 Volvo S60R

  6. #36
    Back to the Omnipresent! Spittybug's Avatar
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    Adam, did you ever build a mock up of what you are going to have made? It's been a while, so perhaps a picture would remind some people? Essentially you want to totally remove all parts of the stock fuel system upstream of the throttle body (fuel distributor, mixing unit and airbox) so that you can get a nice compact air filter to fit in between the air runners, right? Or were you going to run a hose to the side pontoon and hide one in there?

    Cool way to clean things up if you join the growing number of people that are converting to EFI using the stock manifold! Go for it!
    Owen
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  7. #37
    Senior Member AdmiralSenn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spittybug View Post
    Adam, did you ever build a mock up of what you are going to have made? It's been a while, so perhaps a picture would remind some people? Essentially you want to totally remove all parts of the stock fuel system upstream of the throttle body (fuel distributor, mixing unit and airbox) so that you can get a nice compact air filter to fit in between the air runners, right? Or were you going to run a hose to the side pontoon and hide one in there?

    Cool way to clean things up if you join the growing number of people that are converting to EFI using the stock manifold! Go for it!
    from the middle of last year. Essentially I want to replace the flex hose with solid tubing and have it all bolt together nicely via an adapter to the stock throttle bodies.

    You can see how ridiculous and unfinished the air cleaner system is in that picture (and the wiring and hoses and all - I am taking care of that as well). I want to make a sheet metal adapter from the throttle bodies to a 3" intake pipe, and then either keep the filter where it is between the plenums or move it forward of the engine and to one side so it pulls in somewhat colder air. I'm not really a fan of the 180 degree bend necessary for a pontoon mount, I'd rather move it forward and add a heat shield/box. Or do something like a K&N Apollo, with the filter mounted where it is and an intake hose that runs wherever I want it.

    I've been slowly adding improvements to that setup, but I was never happy with the way it looked or the slapdash way it was connected together. It hasn't been an issue since the car's other problems keep taking it off the road, but I am trying to get the engine bay "done" with this rebuild. I am tired of being forced to take shortcuts due to budget constraints so I am making it a point to make each component a "forever" upgrade. No more "good enough".

    I figure if the shop can make a few of these adapters it will solve one of the last barriers to entry for a budget EFI project. Not that my build is budget any more, but still.
    Last edited by AdmiralSenn; 03-13-2013 at 03:33 PM.
    Aka Adam S, aka Adam Wright
    1981 DMC-12 #3416, mothballed in preparation for motor swap
    2006 Volvo S60R

  8. #38
    '82 T3 Turbo FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

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    My VIN:    10270

    Necro bump!

    (The Admiral hasn't logged on since last August, but maybe other have experience here?)

    I see the Aeromotive FPR is connected to vacuum which enables rising rate mode. I would have assumed this would make CL tuning - especially idle tuning - more difficult since FP will decrease as vacuum increases. Just wondering what the rationale was.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 1982 Grey 5-Speed :: Single T3 .60/.48 Watercooled :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X In Process :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

    Console5.com - Game console parts, kits, games and more. [shop] [wiki] [RSS] [f] [t]

  9. #39
    '82 T3 Turbo FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    433

    My VIN:    10270

    I'm going to talk to myself here just to admit that this turned out to be a real newb question. After reading a bit more I see the point of vac/boost referenced FPR is to maintain a (as close to as possible) linear pressure differential between MAP and FP.

    My brain was in kjet mode which has no such compensation mechanism, which is why Kjet turbo leans out under boost - as MAP increases, the pressure differential decreases meaning less fuel flows from the injectors.

    (/me puts thread back in the ground)
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 1982 Grey 5-Speed :: Single T3 .60/.48 Watercooled :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X In Process :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

    Console5.com - Game console parts, kits, games and more. [shop] [wiki] [RSS] [f] [t]

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