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Thread: Spittybug - Designs for converting stock setup to EFI

  1. #111
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hill Country, TX

    Posts:    1,579

    My VIN:    Formerly 2329

    Adam, thank goodness it was my faulty memory then!

    Well yesterday we tried to go the last yard on Shannon's car. After running it again as fuel-only to make sure all was well, the guys tore off the manifold, rails, hoses etc. and proceeded to adjust the valve lash. Nothing major there, one or two need minor tightening but that was it. As the car was on TDC #1 for their last valve, it made dizzy work easy. 4 of us noted the rotor position relative to the case notch and the static advance slot. Dizzy was removed, weights tacked and reinserted to exactly the same position as it came out.

    I made the two jumper position changes on the 3.57 surface mount MSII board as required, changed Tuner studio to "Basic Trigger" with 13* offset and used the advance table that I'm successfully using in my car. Connected the VR from the dizzy to the shielded input cable to MSII and connected the spark output wire to coil (-).

    Cranked it, saw RPMs showing up on gauge (indicates VR input working), but alas, it wouldn't start. The composite log showed good tooth pattern, but the short cranking log showed a pretty high dwell value, (~14 instead of the value of 6 in the dialogue box). Tried a coil test and just a "jumping spark" test and we aren't getting one. It was late and we had to call it quits (and the battery was pretty dead - which in itself may have been the problem), but today is research day to figure out why no spark. I'm hoping it is simply something stupid that I forgot to do. We did make sure the coil was reconnected to (+) and confirmed all wires.

    So very close!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  2. #112
    EFI Squirted DARCOM's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  San Antonio TX

    Posts:    98

    My VIN:    2942

    My TPS was originaly taped and screwed into the plate that holds the TPS. But after a week they kept backing out. This was also in my testing faze when I was making change to it. But in a pinch I used wire ties because the bolts fell out and were lost. It's the only place I used ties but I'm impresed with how well they worked. With testing through the years on MS the TPS has not given me any problems so I figure if it ant broke don't fix it. But for apearences it did look better with bolts.

    Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk

  3. #113
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hill Country, TX

    Posts:    1,579

    My VIN:    Formerly 2329

    I failed to make a jumper connection for the spark output and will be soldering that on late this afternoon. The documentation for the 3.57 board isn't as clear as it is for the previous versions, so when we're done with our write-up, hopefully it will provide a very clear step by step set of instructions.
    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  4. #114
    Senior Member AdmiralSenn's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    443

    Well, I hope you figure it out because I just ordered one of the two components I was missing to go full spark control. I'm counting on you for when my car inevitable does something baffling and crazy, such as working fine at 3:13 pm every Wednesday but at no other time or on any other day.

    ....... That hit too close to home. I made myself sad.
    Aka Adam S, aka Adam Wright
    1981 DMC-12 #3416, mothballed in preparation for motor swap
    2006 Volvo S60R

  5. #115
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hill Country, TX

    Posts:    1,579

    My VIN:    Formerly 2329

    D'oh!! I also found out that the damned 3.57 board doesn't come pre-populated with the coil driver transistor! It's only $8.50, but what a PITA! My 3.0 board had it so I never questioned that this one wouldn't. Trying to figure out WHERE THE HELL the jumpers go to is a mess. Really poor documentation on this board. Being a surface mount board, the solder pads are virtually non-existent. This will need to be a careful solder once I get the transistors.

    Good news however, Shannon's car started right up on fuel & spark using my MSII unit! That means all wiring and distributor outputs, etc are up to snuff! Now he can go in and shorten wires, clean up the tangle and otherwise make it look pretty.
    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  6. #116
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    I am going to de-lurk for a moment to ask if this means that those of us who aren't good with electronics should buy the previous version of MegaSquirt, since the newer version seems more of a pain to get set up.

    Thanks! I enjoy reading the progress here.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  7. #117
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    2,405

    My VIN:    01049

    Well Farrar, they're both MegaSquirt 2; the difference is in the board versions. The version 3 board is for assembly at home, and the version 3.57 comes as a pre-assembled, tested unit.

    I'm not great with electronics either, so I bought the 3.57 and it has been fine for my fuel only set-up. According to the documentation, it is already set-up for ignition, so I'm not sure what the issue is there.
    -Mike

    My engine twists my frame.

    1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
    1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  8. #118
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Minnesota

    Posts:    1,585

    My VIN:    06960

    There are two current versions. a 3.0 board, which is a DIY through-hole board. You can buy these in kit form or pre-assembled. I did mine in kit-form. The other option is a 3.57 board, which is an SMD automated assembly line produced product. The 3.57 is great for the plug in and go type of person. The 3.0 is still superior to the tinkerer type.
    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

  9. #119
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Houston

    Posts:    707

    My VIN:    16113

    Club(s):   (SCDC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    I am going to de-lurk for a moment to ask if this means that those of us who aren't good with electronics should buy the previous version of MegaSquirt, since the newer version seems more of a pain to get set up.

    Thanks! I enjoy reading the progress here.
    You can go to fuel only control with the as built MS but adding spark control means opening the box and making a few changes. I would advise going to EFI if you are interested. We're proving that it can be done with the stock engine and manifold. We started my car last night with Owen's MS unit contolling both fuel and spark. I had driven my car some with my box controlling the fuel with no problems. Changing it to control spark is the last step to going fully EFI. Now I just need to do the housekeeping with the wiring and clean the car from all the pollen on it.

  10. #120
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by lazabby View Post
    I would advise going to EFI if you are interested. We're proving that it can be done with the stock engine and manifold.
    I would rather do it on the 3.0L, but I am just being patient. Thanks!
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

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