Spittybug - Designs for converting stock setup to EFI

[dmc6960]

I would rather do it on the 3.0L, but I am just being patient. Thanks!

And if doing the 3.0L you'll need it to control spark as well. If your a tinkerer, I'd advise doing the v3.0 board or whatever equivalent is available when you do it.

[opethmike]

Point of semantics - can we please stop calling EFI + ignition control full EFI? EFI is merely electronic fuel injection; ergo, fuel control.

[Spittybug]

As Shannon pointed out, the prototype has been proven out. The issue I'm awaiting parts on is simple. The v3.57 board has surface mounted components and is therefore probably more vibration resistant and has better quality control. Whether you build your own board (I did, a v3.0) or buy a pre-built board, there are a TON of potential ignition systems that they can drive, so they can't all be pre-configured. We simply missed the fact that the pre-built v3.57 board needed you to also buy the $8.50 kit that contains the necessary transistor and insulator. Popping that into the correct slot, soldering a couple of pretty easy connections, and moving one of their existing jumper wires is all that is necessary. Simple once you realize that the board didn't have it in place as purchased!

Once we get it buttoned up and Shannon can really drive it and show it off, I'll try and not only get a step-by-step how-to written so that anyone can install one, but I'll also pull together a kit of the necessary customized parts and make that available. (Rails, idle block and brackets). I'm really hesitant to offer full kits however since everyone's car seems to be a little bit different and people have different desires on how to route wires, where to mount boxes, etc. Hopefully we can make the instructions so easy to follow that no matter what you want to do you will be able to clearly understand where things go. I've even documented the means to tack down the weights in the distributor to disable the mechanical advance (reversible with a Dremmel). We'll provide vendor names, part numbers and all that.

No two ways about it, you will learn A LOT about how your car functions and will demystify the inner workings of the fuel/spark system. It will boil down to a single box controlling both. There are a lot of helpful people who can help diagnose or fix Megasquirt issues while the K-Jet community shrinks everyday. By having the benefit of several other stock Deloreans and the work their owners have done to get really good tunes burned to their Megasquirts, once the hardware is installed you are basically ready to drive.

***IF***your car is in good working order (grounds clean, spark plugs good, O2 sensor not frozen in, distributor not sloppy, etc), the work that has been done to make these parts and get things right from a hardware point of view should allow for a one-day conversion, quite literally. Making pretty harnesses or really clean wiring bays can add time.....

We'll get Shannon (and Ian when we find out what about his CAR, not Megasquirt is holding him back), to post videos of the final products so that you can see with your own eyes.

[Farrar]

Any notion of how much it would cost for fuel control only? I would be willing to give EFI a chance on my current engine, depending on how much money I have to sink into it. I would be using Bill's low-profile intake manifold, but that wouldn't make any difference to the length of wires and hoses.

[opethmike]

Any notion of how much it would cost for fuel control only? I would be willing to give EFI a chance on my current engine, depending on how much money I have to sink into it. I would be using Bill's low-profile intake manifold, but that wouldn't make any difference to the length of wires and hoses.

That is going to vary widely, but to give you an idea, I spent about $1,700. But, I bought as much pre-assembled stuff as possible, and bought brand new, high impedance injectors, and an intake manifold from Martin in the UK.

I would think you could certainly get away with under $1,000 or so, without too much trouble. You should be able to re-use your existing manifold, but would have to either go with throttle body injection, or have injector bungs welded in.

I'd imagine that going TBI would be a bit easier, in that you should be able to find a TBI unit somewhere, and make an adapter plate for it to fit your manifold.

[Farrar]

I spent about $1,700.

OK, sorry I asked... :\

[DARCOM]

If you want the least expensive, get used parts at a salvage yard on a 2.8 chevy v6.injectors, tps, temp sensor, air temp sensor, iac, and wiring connectors. then buy a ms2 extra that you build yourself, buy some untaped fuel rails, high pressure hoses and a fuel pressure regulator. if you do all the work yourself you may get away with spending $600+-.

[opethmike]

OK, sorry I asked... :\

Well, I DID go pretty much the most expensive route possible so my amount isn't representative.

[AdmiralSenn]

I think all of our combined efforts, especially Owen's latest venture with developing a drop-in conversion, has conclusively proven that you can do it for around $1000 or less.

In my case I think I could duplicate my current setup for around $1100. That's including the markup on my fuel system parts; buying them online would have saved me a few hundred. I also spent a lot more money on expensive fuel lines and fittings than is strictly necessary.

It really depends on how much work you want to put into it versus how much you're willing to pay for convenience.

[Spittybug]

For those who are asking the $$ aspects, see this link: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?25...ll=1#post34730

The difference is the manifold, the aluminum work, the throttle body, air filter, throttle position sensor and any credit for the K-Jet parts. The fuel fittings are a bit more expensive than I estimated too.