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Thread: Headlight switch and dash lights

  1. #1
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    Headlight switch and dash lights

    I figured it's more useful to start a new thread than to keep adding to the Tech Session post...

    On my way back from the tech session, my light switch came apart (the back pulled out). I managed to put it back together, but I have no dash lights. The other lights work, and the switch works.

    I jumpered the rheostat wires and that didn't help.

    So I took it apart. It doesn't look melted or corroded, but I don't see how the dash light connector is supposed to get power. I think maybe some piece fell out behind the dashboard when the back came out.

    Until I get a new switch, is there any reason why the marker lights and dash lights connectors couldn't be jumpered together? I am switching my lights to LEDs, so the power draw shouldn't be a problem (I am sure the headlights draw a lot more anyway).

    Here's a picture of the inside of the switch, and the connectors.

    Thanks!
    Alex
    Attached Images

  2. #2
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Actually the switch see less current switching the headlights (about 70 ma.). That is because the headlights (high and low beams) are switched with two relays.

    If it's only the dash illumination lights not working you probably have bad connection. It could be a broken wire or bad crimp. If you wire 12 volts to the rheostat red/white wire, all five illumination lights should light.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #3
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    If you wire 12 volts to the rheostat red/white wire, all five illumination lights should light.
    Could be a red/orange wire...
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  4. #4
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Rheostat has four red/orange wires all tied together and the other wire that feeds the dash lamps should be red/white. If you have a meter, just check if there is 12 volts on those wires.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #5
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Rheostat has four red/orange wires all tied together and the other wire that feeds the dash lamps should be red/white.
    Good grief! My car is screwed up. They must have been running low on red/white wire when they made #2613's harness. There are quite a few places where it was evidently substituted with something else nearby. *sigh*

    Sorry.

    Farrar
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  6. #6
    Not dead yet, also Admin. sean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Good grief! My car is screwed up.
    naw, it's just unique.
    eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
    K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955

  7. #7
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    You're right about the red/white wire, per the schematic. I fed 12V and I only get one dash light- the bottom one by the mileage. Actually, I had noticed that light on before, but since everything else was dark I assumed it was light bleeding from some other place.

    So, is it binnacle removal time? :-(

    Also, I probably have other issues which may or may not be related:
    1. When I turn on the key, I only get the oil lamp to light up - no other indicator lights
    2. When I turn the headlight switch to either on position, the a/c panel lights go out

  8. #8
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Buy lots of bulbs ;-)

  9. #9
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    Well, the lights were coming on and going off when I was coming back from your house, Ron, whenever I hit a bump. Right now they happen to be off - or they could have all burned at once.

    I was planning to replace them with LEDs, so if I have to remove the binnacle I will wait until I get the LEDs.

  10. #10
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    See if the red-orange wire at the AC Panel relay has 12v with lights on.

    It's odd your batt, fuel, ?brake? light quit, they use the same feed as the oil light but each have different grounds.
    Last edited by Ron; 11-01-2011 at 09:57 PM.

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