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Thread: Headlight switch and dash lights

  1. #21
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    If you remove the light relay and install the jumper to make the AC lights only come on at full brightness with the light switch, then you don't need that red resistor. Just leave the resistor out.

    I thought his problem was with the binnacle lights. This relay, resistor wiring has nothing to do with those.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  2. #22
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    Yes, Ron, I am referring to a very nice color schematic (thank you whoever made it!), but it is abstract and doesn't quite show what things look like "on the ground".

    So I removed the relay holder to see things more clearly, and upon further inspection, things are more complicated than that, and may be connected to my hot start problem???

    That black wire I am talking about actually goes right by the red plug, but is in fact connected to relay 28 "Start Inhibit", not the ac (my apologies!). It is connected to a loose plug that is sitting on top of the impulse unit, which has a Blue/Black and a White/Red wire going to the harness. So it is taking Black (ground?) from the loose plug and connecting to the left pin of #28, which has a White/Yellow wire. Is this what is called "105 Starter Relay" in the schematic?

    Here is the overall picture, and detail pictures:
    DSCN6990s.jpgDSCN6991s.jpgDSCN6992s.jpgDSCN6993s.jpgDSCN6994s.jpg

    From the schematic I see that Blue/Black and White/Red goes to Cold Start Valve and Thermo Time Switch, so they wired the starter to those?
    Last edited by aludden; 11-03-2011 at 12:46 PM.

  3. #23
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    If you remove the light relay and install the jumper to make the AC lights only come on at full brightness with the light switch, then you don't need that red resistor. Just leave the resistor out.

    I thought his problem was with the binnacle lights. This relay, resistor wiring has nothing to do with those.
    You're right Dave, now that I dig deeper I am understanding how it all goes together. It just seems that one thing leads to another, and I'm not sure which problems are related and which are unrelated. I have several issues:
    1. My binnacle lights don't work except for the mileage illumination and the oil lamp
    2. My a/c panel goes off when I turn the lights on
    3. There is some "creative" wiring in my relay panel
    4. I have a hot-start problem

    Sorry for the confusion!
    Alex

  4. #24
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    Sorry, this thread is getting intertwined with the SEDOC meet thread. Should I post this there instead of here? I will eventually get back to my lights... :-)

    The more I look, the more questions I have...
    1. Where is the "107 Hot Start Relay" from the schematic located? I don't see it in figure 31 of the manual.
    2. Where is the plug that I mention above with the black wire and UB/WR supposed to be connected to? Is that for the "Hot Start Relay"?
    3. Why would they connect the Black wire from that plug to the White/Yellow starter relay? I don't see black wires going to the Cold Start Valve in the schematic (although there is one to the Thermo Time)

    Aaaaahhh!

  5. #25
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    The hot start relay socket is way at the back of the relay compartment. It's a white socket just hanging there. It should have three wired pins in it.

    The schematic does not show the start inhibit relay modification to make it a starter relay.

    It's pretty easy for someone to move some of the relay sockets since they just interlock to each other. Mine had the headlight relays swapped.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #26
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    The grounds are ganged. So if you see black wires going from socket to socket, don't be alarmed -- that's how they came from the factory.

    Farrar
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  7. #27
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    The hot start relay socket is way at the back of the relay compartment. It's a white socket just hanging there. It should have three wired pins in it.

    The schematic does not show the start inhibit relay modification to make it a starter relay.

    It's pretty easy for someone to move some of the relay sockets since they just interlock to each other. Mine had the headlight relays swapped.
    Well I guess mine is a black socket, because the wire colors match the schematic.
    So there really is not relay, it's just a socket to put one if one wants to?
    They anticipated having a hot start problem, rather than fixing it?

    I'm not sure what you mean by the "start inhibit relay mod"...

  8. #28
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    In the Color schematic, section B4, where do those wires go?
    I'm trying to trace the White/Yellow wire from the starter relay.

  9. #29
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    "On the ground" for relays:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40...ull=1#post7640

    Quote Originally Posted by aludden View Post
    Sorry, this thread is getting intertwined with the SEDOC meet thread. Should I post this there instead of here? I will eventually get back to my lights... :-)

    The more I look, the more questions I have...
    1. Where is the "107 Hot Start Relay" from the schematic located? I don't see it in figure 31 of the manual.
    2. Where is the plug that I mention above with the black wire and UB/WR supposed to be connected to? Is that for the "Hot Start Relay"?
    3. Why would they connect the Black wire from that plug to the White/Yellow starter relay? I don't see black wires going to the Cold Start Valve in the schematic (although there is one to the Thermo Time)

    Aaaaahhh!
    I'd keep it here and maybe ask sean to move the others.

    1 & 2 are the same animal. (mine's black too)
    3- that would override the neutral safty switch. The thermo time switch uses its ground to control the Cold Start Valve.

    Quote Originally Posted by aludden View Post
    Well I guess mine is a black socket, because the wire colors match the schematic.
    So there really is not relay, it's just a socket to put one if one wants to?
    They anticipated having a hot start problem, rather than fixing it?

    I'm not sure what you mean by the "start inhibit relay mod"...
    It was a feature (that had more wires) that was abandoned. I'd forget it and fix the real problem (I know you are trying to do so ;-)

    still reading...
    Last edited by Ron; 11-03-2011 at 06:43 PM.

  10. #30
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    3- that would override the neutral safty switch. The thermo time switch uses its ground to control the Cold Start Valve.
    Aha! That would explain why my car started in reverse yesterday! I was messing with the shifter to get at the rheostat and forgot to put back in park. It sure woke me up! :-)

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