my originals are rebuilt, i was just curious as read in a previous thread on here that jag calipers could be used on the rear. but i will never throw anything D related away or for a core to a store.
Location: Nelsonville , Ohio
Posts: 305
My VIN: 10186
my originals are rebuilt, i was just curious as read in a previous thread on here that jag calipers could be used on the rear. but i will never throw anything D related away or for a core to a store.
Location: Stevens Point,WI
Posts: 2,470
My VIN: 6125
So is the consensus then that the pads I pulled off the car are original? They're getting replaced either way, but I was curious to know if someone could confirm they are the OE pads.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Experimenting with the brake system and substituting parts can be dangerous. The brake system was designed with a "bias" and changing the ratio of braking front-to-rear can cause unexpected handling problems. For example if you change the size of the rear calipers (using ones with smaller pistons) you will cause the front brakes to lock up the front wheels sooner than the rear ones. You have to split the calipers to remove the pistons. You can reuse the square "O" ring or replace it. I use a little silicone sealer on the old one and have not had any problems. The calipers are not usually the problem, the pistons are typically corroded and the plating is pitted. Requires new pistons or the seals will leak. Sounds like you could have the original pads but who cares? They are a wearable part like wiper blades, batteries, coolant hoses, belts, etc.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Stevens Point,WI
Posts: 2,470
My VIN: 6125
Agreed that changing the rear calipers to Jag crossover parts will most likely upset the braking balance of the car. The vendors out there make it easy enough to get authentic replacements so in my opinion it's not worth the risk with such a safety critical item. The car may still stop OK under normal use, but in an emergency situation where a few extra feet of stopping distance could mean smashing the front of my car I'll stick with OEM brakes.
The reason why I wanted to know if the brakes were original or not was so I could make a note in my service records. Much of the car's history is unknown prior to 2001... i don't even know where it was origininally sold, and there is no record of it in DMCH's archives.
Plus it's surprising to me how much pad is actually left for 36k miles of use.
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Please see post #8.Originally Posted by mjdehlin
But yeah, I am hanging onto my old calipers just in case. I am only entering my second year of "testing" my new brakes.
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
If they are originals it would be a record - the OEM pads that came on the car were incredibly soft, and typically gone by 10K miles. Of course this depends on driving style, but we've seen enough low miles original cars to see the pattern.
They could well be dealer-replacements, which could by why they have the green labels on them (OE on the car are not generaly stickered like that).
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
You have to split the calipers to do a good cleaning of the piston boar. A new o-ring will give you a perfect seal.
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Dave M vin 03572
