Yes, front, of the car. You'll need a decent sized extension to reach through the engine cradle, but its only 3 bolts to undue, then of course the 12v leads.
Yes, front, of the car. You'll need a decent sized extension to reach through the engine cradle, but its only 3 bolts to undue, then of course the 12v leads.
Jim Reeve
DMC6960
D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise
Posts: 94
Hello All,
Today we replaced an OEM starter with Autozone starter #16550 that is the same size as the OEM. The only diffferance is this particular starter has two ground screws and an extra solinoid connection not on the OEM starter. Simply eliminating the two ground screws and disregarding the extra connection, the starter is the same as OEM. The engine started on the first crank. Call if you wish. Byrne (770-536-2410)
Last edited by Byrne H&A; 11-09-2011 at 04:47 PM. Reason: added phone No.
Location: Hill Country, TX
Posts: 1,579
My VIN: Formerly 2329
Good to know Byrne, thanks for sharing that with us.
Owen
I.Brew.Beer.
Location: Congers NY
Posts: 188
My VIN: SCEDT26T5BD06996
Club(s): (DMA)
Is there any reason to hang on to the OEM starter? Or should I get my $30 core charge back?
"He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
- William Shakespeare
Location: Dahlonega GA
Posts: 2,462
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955
Location: Congers NY
Posts: 188
My VIN: SCEDT26T5BD06996
Club(s): (DMA)
I had disconnected the old starter, hooked up the new one, left it hanging, turned the key, and I could hear it spinning. So I got back under the car to finish tightening down connections. Dummy that I am, I forgot to disconnect the battery. I made accidental contact with the two terminals on the top of the solenoid and zapped myself just a bit. Now nothing happens.
I checked all fuses and swaped the starter relay. Then I turn the key, the infamous "clicking" from the relay panel is still heard. It seems to be coming from the lower ZILLA box in the picture below...
I thought I may've destroyed the starter, but even when I hook the old one up, no go...
Do I have these connections right? The three red to the top post... nothing but the starters own yellow wire on the bottom? The two little white ones between the two posts to the right? I need to get this thing running. Neither starter runs when hooked up to 12V... the gear pops out... but does not spin...I can't imagine both starters die at once... I need to get this thing running. It's my only transportation right now...
"He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
- William Shakespeare
If the gear pops out you must have a bad connection, probably ground. Make sure it's bolted tight to the engine.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: Congers NY
Posts: 188
My VIN: SCEDT26T5BD06996
Club(s): (DMA)
Dumbass question of the day... It needs to be bolted? I just got it to spin by putting both positive on the little terminal and the lower. Could I have gotten the wiring upside down? I don't think so because if I put what I think is the top wire on the bottom, it's going to be constant 12V which is no good.
Would the tight bolting matter if I can get it to spin off the battery?
"He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
- William Shakespeare
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/