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Thread: Eagle Premier Starter

  1. #11
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Minnesota

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    My VIN:    06960

    Yes, front, of the car. You'll need a decent sized extension to reach through the engine cradle, but its only 3 bolts to undue, then of course the 12v leads.
    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

  2. #12
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    94

    Same Size Starter

    Hello All,
    Today we replaced an OEM starter with Autozone starter #16550 that is the same size as the OEM. The only diffferance is this particular starter has two ground screws and an extra solinoid connection not on the OEM starter. Simply eliminating the two ground screws and disregarding the extra connection, the starter is the same as OEM. The engine started on the first crank. Call if you wish. Byrne (770-536-2410)
    Last edited by Byrne H&A; 11-09-2011 at 04:47 PM. Reason: added phone No.

  3. #13
    Back to the Omnipresent! Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hot and bloody humid Houston

    Posts:    1,423

    My VIN:    2329

    Good to know Byrne, thanks for sharing that with us.
    Owen
    Tour the country and visit breweries through the eyes of our two puppy dogs. http://www.twobrewdogs.com
    Help us spread the word! @twobrewdogs on Twitter, twobrewdogs on Facebook.

  4. #14
    Rick/AKA.. DA BEARD congerz83's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Congers NY

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    My VIN:    SCEDT26T5BD06996

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    Is there any reason to hang on to the OEM starter? Or should I get my $30 core charge back?
    "He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
    - William Shakespeare

  5. #15
    Not dead yet, also Admin. sean's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Dahlonega GA

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    Quote Originally Posted by congerz83 View Post
    Is there any reason to hang on to the OEM starter? Or should I get my $30 core charge back?
    I would see if one of the DMC vendors or Hervey would give you the same amount or more for it, try to keep it in the community.
    eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
    K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955

  6. #16
    Rick/AKA.. DA BEARD congerz83's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Congers NY

    Posts:    188

    My VIN:    SCEDT26T5BD06996

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    I had disconnected the old starter, hooked up the new one, left it hanging, turned the key, and I could hear it spinning. So I got back under the car to finish tightening down connections. Dummy that I am, I forgot to disconnect the battery. I made accidental contact with the two terminals on the top of the solenoid and zapped myself just a bit. Now nothing happens.

    I checked all fuses and swaped the starter relay. Then I turn the key, the infamous "clicking" from the relay panel is still heard. It seems to be coming from the lower ZILLA box in the picture below...




    I thought I may've destroyed the starter, but even when I hook the old one up, no go...

    Do I have these connections right? The three red to the top post... nothing but the starters own yellow wire on the bottom? The two little white ones between the two posts to the right? I need to get this thing running. Neither starter runs when hooked up to 12V... the gear pops out... but does not spin...I can't imagine both starters die at once... I need to get this thing running. It's my only transportation right now...

    "He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
    - William Shakespeare

  7. #17
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    6,920

    My VIN:    03572

    If the gear pops out you must have a bad connection, probably ground. Make sure it's bolted tight to the engine.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  8. #18
    Rick/AKA.. DA BEARD congerz83's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Congers NY

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    If the gear pops out you must have a bad connection, probably ground. Make sure it's bolted tight to the engine.
    Dumbass question of the day... It needs to be bolted? I just got it to spin by putting both positive on the little terminal and the lower. Could I have gotten the wiring upside down? I don't think so because if I put what I think is the top wire on the bottom, it's going to be constant 12V which is no good.

    Would the tight bolting matter if I can get it to spin off the battery?
    "He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
    - William Shakespeare

  9. #19
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    6,920

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by congerz83 View Post
    Dumbass question of the day... It needs to be bolted? I just got it to spin by putting both positive on the little terminal and the lower. Could I have gotten the wiring upside down? I don't think so because if I put what I think is the top wire on the bottom, it's going to be constant 12V which is no good.

    Would the tight bolting matter if I can get it to spin off the battery?
    Yes it needs to be grounded (bolted to block) to run. Your battery wires only feed the +12 volts. You also need to have all the 12 volt wires on.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #20
    Rick/AKA.. DA BEARD congerz83's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Congers NY

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Yes it needs to be grounded (bolted to block) to run.
    Ok... I'll try that, but did the connections look good?
    "He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
    - William Shakespeare

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