I did a how-to a while back with lots of pics... Here's the link. http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?t=1070
Short answer is there is no easy way. It's a crap job. But soooooo worth it.
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
I did a how-to a while back with lots of pics... Here's the link. http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?t=1070
Short answer is there is no easy way. It's a crap job. But soooooo worth it.
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
one wire at a time, its the best way so no mistakes , and as already said cut close to old fuse box as new terminals you will have :-) I folded and moved the seat to the front although i did get cramp :-)
Andy
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Spending the 2 minutes removing the bolts holding the seat down is time very, very well spent. No question at all. I take them out for almost any interior work actually - doors, under the dashboard, electrical, anything. They're so simple to remove!
Well it helps that I plan to install new carpet anyway so I'll prolly time the two together
Location: North East Ohio
Posts: 123
My VIN: 5780
I've seen a few different vendors selling replacement fuse boxes. Is one better than others? For example, Hervey has one, but it's a bit more expensive than the DMCH version. Does anyone know of any difference between these two, other than the shape / layout? What about quality?
I ask not because the fuse box in my car is melted. No, that'd be too simple apparently. My car's fuses are currently sitting on foam pads.
The DMCH unit has very good terminals. The block is a copy of the original. I've never seen Harvey's so can't compair.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: Hill Country, TX
Posts: 1,579
My VIN: Formerly 2329
I was thinking of going to Pick a Part and ripping out a fuse panel something like this. Do a total do-over of the passenger side fuse compartment with modern components. Probably just a pipe dream however.................
I too HIGHLY recommend removing the seat before working on this. I also recommend rigging up some good lighting so that you are fussing around with flashlights or other temporary means. SOLDER where possible and put your mind at ease that your connections are solid.
Owen
I.Brew.Beer.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
If you are thinking about "modern" most new cars have gone to the "mini" fuses. They also have multiple fuse blocks, one in front, one in the dash, under seats, and in the rear. That is probably serious overkill for a Delorean and would require a new wiring harness. One of the problems with the fuse block is it's location. It gets no air so it runs WAY too hot.
David Teitelbaum
Hervey's are not stock looking but I think you have a few extra fuse slots to play with on his.
I have the DMCH reproduction and it looks original and works fine.
Aka Adam S, aka Adam Wright
1981 DMC-12 #3416, mothballed in preparation for motor swap
2006 Volvo S60R
Wow, lots of good advice provided in this thread! Way to go guys.
I'd also suggest getting a box (or floor) fan, and aim at the open door area where you'll be working. Put on some tunes, and have you favorite ice-cold beverage of choice handy. Maybe the job will be tedious, but not so bad after all.
Thomas
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