Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 34
My VIN: 1356
Thanks Ryan, look forward to working on the car, I'll take photos and post them here. I'll be greatful for all advices I can get, I'm just a hobby mechanic and I'll use the workshop manual, forums and all other resources I can to get things sorted out.Originally Posted by Ryan King
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 34
My VIN: 1356
I took some pictures today when I removed the seats, signal lights and tail lights.
Looks like a previous owner has resprayed the license lights and cut the wires to them.
I need to rewire the side markers to blink, and cut out the marker lights, it should only be turn signals on the front of the car and not a constant yellow light.
The passanger seat rails seems to have rusted shut.
There's a lot of small things to do, but the car seems to be in pretty good condition. I'll have a closer look at the frame when I'm changing the oil.
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Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 34
My VIN: 1356
Today I replaced the rear speakers and removed the center console, seems like someone has cut the wires to the clock, I'll hook it up later to see if it works.
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Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 34
My VIN: 1356
My focus now is the lights on the car before I try and get it registered it need to be sorted out.
My problems:
[sorted] Marker lights on the front of the car - not allowed in Norway
Brake lights are not working
Reverse light is not working
High beams are not working
Marker lights front:
I've used the wireing diagram http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...3&d=1306066397
to sort out the marker lights, I've disconnected the red wires on the front turn lights.
I've also switched the red wire that goes to the side lights with the green wire so they blink along with the turn signals.
Brake lights:
The turn signal and marker lights on the tail light is working.
The horn is working (rules out fuse #6).
I've tried switching the bulbs around.
When I look at the wireing diagram on the brake lights it looks like the only fault could be the stop lamp switch. I haven't looked under the dash yet, I guess it's easy to see where it is.
Could it be something else?
Reverse light:
I havn't done more than turning on the ignition, turning on the lights and putting the car in reverse.
I guess it could be the switch on the transmission, is it easy to find?
I had a closer look in the fuse and relay compartment today, it looks like a mess, the relay holder for the 2nd row seems to be gone.
It also looks like the hot start relay is gone.
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Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 34
My VIN: 1356
My problems:
[sorted] Marker lights on the front of the car - not allowed in Norway
[sorted] Brake lights are not working
[sorted] Reverse light is not working
High beams are not working
Brake lights:
I disconnected the switch, sprayed it with electronic cleaner, and it worked.
Reverse light:
Bad Connections in the tail lights, brushed socket and sprayed with el. cleaner.
I've not looked at the high beams yet, I'll try and change the relay and check wires with a volt meter and hopefully it will be sorted out as well.
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 34
My VIN: 1356
Okay, now I probably need some help, tried starting the car for the second time, it wouldn't start.
I changed out fuse #7 (30 Amp) with a 20 Amp and the RPM Fuel Relay.
It now started.
But the fuse blows after 30 seconds or so.
When I look in the trunk I see someone has added some wires and it dosn't look like they've used alot of effort. A piece of the red wire is exposed as well.
I will change out these wires with some new ones, but are there any other things I should look at too?
I would be greatful for any advise.
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Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,008
My VIN: 03572
That wiring needs some work. Try unplugging the WUR and see if the 20 amp fuse holds (it should). There has been a few WUR short circuit by the wiring inside melting.
If it still blows your fuel pump is probably bad unless the PO added another circuit to the pump.
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 34
My VIN: 1356
Thanks, I'll change the wires and try disconnecting the WUR tomorrow.
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 34
My VIN: 1356
It didn't help to change out the wiring and disconnecting the WUR, any idea what else I can look for?
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,008
My VIN: 03572
Try disconnecting the pump. If it still blows the fuse you have a wiring short. If not, it's probably the pump is bad.
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Dave M vin 03572