Fascia Removal Procedure

[paul_haga]

Well...this is officially my first post on DMCTalk.org!

Does anyone have a quick step-by-step for removing the front and rear fascia of the car?

I'm going to be repainting both this summer at some point and would like to know what I'm getting into. Any tips would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!

-Paul

[Patrick C]

After having recently done this, do yourself a favor and have them painted ON the car.

[paul_haga]

After having recently done this, do yourself a favor and have them painted ON the car.

Really??? Everyone is telling me to take them off because you can't get all of the edges of the fascia properly prepared and painted otherwise. I'm definitely willing to put the time into removing them. I'm not really looking for a short cut. Also, is $800 a fair price from a custom auto painter to strip and paint the fascia's? I'm also filling the license plate holes on the front bumper.

-Paul

[dmc6960]

The problem is removing them if they have never been removed before. In that situation all the fasteners are rusted and break when removing them. Then your left with fascias and an airdam with no means to bolt back onto the car. There are replacement studs you can get for just this situation though. If your fascias have been off in lets say, the last 10 years or so, removal shouldn't be too hard. I can assist if you'd like. I do plan on removing mine for repainting.

Jim Reeve
DMC6960

[DMCMW Dave]

I'd say that's a reasonable price on carry-in loose fascias. You'll find that the cost of painting varies tremendously around the country, and you'll find that a place like Maaco will paint facias for about $100. No telling how long it will stick though. . . .

The main disadvantage to painting them on the car is the area right around the headlights is hard to get to. Also just above the tail pipes.

A good compromise might be to remove the headlight bulbs for the guy. Make sure that the parking lights, tail lights, and rear license frame will come off so he doesn't have to drill out rusty screws.

Removing the rear fascia is not a big deal assuming you don't break off the little studs across the bottom. Unplug the rear wiring harness at the bulkhead, remove the rear marker lights, and pull off the fascia whole including the inner fiberglass piece and the harness. Oh - if the added 1/4-20 screws are in place into the pontoons, remove the tail lights, carbon cannister, and cold air intake tube to get to the bolts and nuts.


As Patrick mentions the front can be a real PITA.

1 - remove trunk lid
2 - remove spoiler (and probably break studs) You may have to remove the fan shroud, spinning riv nuts and avoiding braking the condenser
3 - remove lower grille (and probably break studs so you buy a new grille
4 - remove the washer pump cover for access (spinning more rivnuts all the way)
5 - remove all the screws across the top, probably breaking/spinning some rusty clip-nuts, or breaking off bolts
6 - remove the parking lights
7 - find the mystery studs on the sides so you can carefully pry the fascia loose there.

Now put it back together without scratching or cracking your new paint.

[DMCNY]

1 - remove trunk lid

7 - find the mystery studs on the sides so you can carefully pry the fascia loose there.

I did find a way to short cut this without removing the hood/trunk lid. (If it helps and you don't wish to remove it)

Get a phillips bit (the kind you can switch in and out of a 1/4" nut driver) and use just the bit with a 1/4" opened end wrench. Takes a little patience and a little time but comes in handy, too if noone is around to help you remove the hood.

Those mystery nuts are a biatch! For me, I found the easiest way was to use a long skinny flat tip/regular screwdriver and push on the tips of the studs from the inside-out to "unhook" the fascia from the fenders.

Have fun!

[Patrick C]

Now put it back together without scratching or cracking your new paint.

[Ryan King]

There is also a good write up about the removal in your Shop Manual. Thats how I did mine.

[sdg3205]

Ya, just go for it. It's a good skill to have anyway. Plus, since this isnt a mechanical nightmare, you can bead blast all the nuts and bolts and use anti seize compound when you reinstall the fresh fasicas. Some break. Some spin. Just have a couple beers on hand.

I had mine done at Concept Muscle Cars. Unbelievable work!

Photo_040611_003.jpgPhoto_040611_002.jpgIMG_2165.jpgPhoto_040611_001.jpgIMG_2149.jpg

[Oddfire]

There is also a good write up about the removal in your Shop Manual. Thats how I did mine.

There's also a very good write up in the DCS magazine, volume 1, issue 4.

http://www.robomerchant.net/delorean...category_id=64

I found the shop manual a little difficult to interpret.