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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #7861
    Junior Member FlyinHokie's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2019

    Location:  SE Michigan

    Posts:    12

    My VIN:    2499

    Took #2499 to Lingenfelter's Cars & Coffee this morning. Great event and the highlight was meeting up with #4665 there too.
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    Darren T

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12

  2. #7862
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2013

    Location:  FL

    Posts:    947

    My VIN:    Early

    Quote Originally Posted by ritztoys View Post
    but I didn't get cut.
    Wish I could say this. I must of looked like some sort of emo after I worked in the doors for the first time...
    Last edited by 81dmc; 06-23-2019 at 12:28 AM.
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

  3. #7863
    DMC Timeless's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2016

    Location:  SW FL

    Posts:    741

    Club(s):   (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by FlyinHokie View Post
    Took #2499 to Lingenfelter's Cars & Coffee this morning. Great event and the highlight was meeting up with #4665 there too.
    I miss going to those meets since I moved to Florida. Always nice.
    ~LXA~
    Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry

  4. #7864
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2015

    Location:  Novi, MI

    Posts:    413

    My VIN:    4665

    Quote Originally Posted by FlyinHokie View Post
    Took #2499 to Lingenfelter's Cars & Coffee this morning. Great event and the highlight was meeting up with #4665 there too.
    Great to meet yet another owner who lives close. #2499 has a beautiful DPI installed EFI system and exhaust. I thought it was a very well integrated and elegant installation.

  5. #7865
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2017

    Location:  Indianapolis, Indiana

    Posts:    160

    My VIN:    04629

    What a Great Sunday!

    Major accomplishment yesterday.....re-secured my roof box! While putting everything back together, I needed to re-adjust door torque bars too.

    My passenger door would bounce(spring too tight) and drivers door wouldn't get to the full open without a little help, now doors 'sag' properly (without lift pistons).

    The best part is I received two new P.J. Grady door lift pistons today, it's nice to see everything working properly.

    Now to adjust striker pins for door adjustment/alignment.

  6. #7866
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    301

    My VIN:    02855

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by ritztoys View Post
    Major accomplishment yesterday.....re-secured my roof box! While putting everything back together, I needed to re-adjust door torque bars too.

    My passenger door would bounce(spring too tight) and drivers door wouldn't get to the full open without a little help, now doors 'sag' properly (without lift pistons).

    The best part is I received two new P.J. Grady door lift pistons today, it's nice to see everything working properly.

    Now to adjust striker pins for door adjustment/alignment.
    what procedure did you follow to do this?

  7. #7867
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2017

    Location:  Indianapolis, Indiana

    Posts:    160

    My VIN:    04629

    Quote Originally Posted by mark w View Post
    what procedure did you follow to do this?
    Well...there are two ways to repair/fix this common problem we will all face in our ownership of the D.

    My roof-box was lifting from the fiberglass tub body about 1/4-5/16" from the factory glue down position, beginning to press against the 'T' panel.

    One way to repair is to use bolts, washers, nuts installed in a 'vertical position' through the fiberglass body, tying the roof box back down. In order to do this requires removing the header board with the attached headliner material and removing the inner door seal, which is on top of the headliner on the sides. This wasn't a choice I wanted to make as my headliner is practically perfect and I didn't want to disturb an otherwise perfect interior!

    So...choice #2, is to install sheet metal screws in a 'horizontal position' either side of the torque bar retaining plates. Both procedures require you to release the tension on the torque bars and remove with the hardware. When you remove the bars, be sure to have a helper/friend support and carefully lower each door.

    That's 70# of door, be very careful!!

    Now the next part requires pushing the roof box back down, now that the twisting tension has been removed.

    A forum member suggested using the garage ceiling/rafters and using a 2x4 between the rafters and roof box metal and deflating the rear tires. Now you can determined the length of the 2x4 to press against the box. Begin airing the tires back up while watching the roof box to return to it's original position. I did one side at a time and used #12x1" sheet metal screws either side of the retaining plate, fiberglass 'feels like' about 1/4 to 3/8" thick in these areas.

    I was able to get my roof box back down to with-in less than 1/16" of original position, extremely happy with the results!

    The best part I didn't have to disturb my headliner.

    When installing the retaining plates there was just enough movement so I could adjust my torque bars away from the hinges, while adjusting the door tension.
    (another bonus to this job)

  8. #7868
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2017

    Location:  Indianapolis, Indiana

    Posts:    160

    My VIN:    04629

    Another issue fixed

    I've had another problem(not me, my car) that I only had blower motor switch position #1, intermittent #2, NO #3, & #4. I checked fuse,OK...then I swapped relays, same problem again on lack of fan speed.

    I then decided to use a mirror with various tools and remove the resistor bridge, attached to the blower motor case.

    Well wouldn't you know it Mr. Corrosion strikes again....one bridge was rusted through(#3) and #2 wasn't too good either. So a visit to the local auto parts store and got a new one.

    Now I can hear the relays "click" on fans speeds #3, #4. (don't remember hearing either one)

    So.....all is good, another issue/project finished.

  9. #7869
    I survived....I think AirmanPika's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Central Cali

    Posts:    302

    My VIN:    5087

    Old nasty transmission is mounted again. Hopefully it works better with the new clutch slave (since I had no idea the old one was bad before my aborted rebuilt transmission install hell).

    I will thank all who recommended the cut off head bolts as a guide. Took minutes again to get it slotted in.

  10. #7870
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    2,371

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by AirmanPika View Post
    Old nasty transmission is mounted again. Hopefully it works better with the new clutch slave (since I had no idea the old one was bad before my aborted rebuilt transmission install hell).

    I will thank all who recommended the cut off head bolts as a guide. Took minutes again to get it slotted in.
    Great job. Other than the clutch slave, were there other issues with your original gearbox to make you opt for a rebuilt unit?
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

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