Took #2499 to Lingenfelter's Cars & Coffee this morning. Great event and the highlight was meeting up with #4665 there too.
Took #2499 to Lingenfelter's Cars & Coffee this morning. Great event and the highlight was meeting up with #4665 there too.
Darren T
1981 DeLorean DMC-12
Location: FL
Posts: 947
My VIN: Early
Last edited by 81dmc; 06-23-2019 at 12:28 AM.
Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 160
My VIN: 04629
Major accomplishment yesterday.....re-secured my roof box! While putting everything back together, I needed to re-adjust door torque bars too.
My passenger door would bounce(spring too tight) and drivers door wouldn't get to the full open without a little help, now doors 'sag' properly (without lift pistons).
The best part is I received two new P.J. Grady door lift pistons today, it's nice to see everything working properly.
Now to adjust striker pins for door adjustment/alignment.
Posts: 301
My VIN: 02855
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 160
My VIN: 04629
Well...there are two ways to repair/fix this common problem we will all face in our ownership of the D.
My roof-box was lifting from the fiberglass tub body about 1/4-5/16" from the factory glue down position, beginning to press against the 'T' panel.
One way to repair is to use bolts, washers, nuts installed in a 'vertical position' through the fiberglass body, tying the roof box back down. In order to do this requires removing the header board with the attached headliner material and removing the inner door seal, which is on top of the headliner on the sides. This wasn't a choice I wanted to make as my headliner is practically perfect and I didn't want to disturb an otherwise perfect interior!
So...choice #2, is to install sheet metal screws in a 'horizontal position' either side of the torque bar retaining plates. Both procedures require you to release the tension on the torque bars and remove with the hardware. When you remove the bars, be sure to have a helper/friend support and carefully lower each door.
That's 70# of door, be very careful!!
Now the next part requires pushing the roof box back down, now that the twisting tension has been removed.
A forum member suggested using the garage ceiling/rafters and using a 2x4 between the rafters and roof box metal and deflating the rear tires. Now you can determined the length of the 2x4 to press against the box. Begin airing the tires back up while watching the roof box to return to it's original position. I did one side at a time and used #12x1" sheet metal screws either side of the retaining plate, fiberglass 'feels like' about 1/4 to 3/8" thick in these areas.
I was able to get my roof box back down to with-in less than 1/16" of original position, extremely happy with the results!
The best part I didn't have to disturb my headliner.
When installing the retaining plates there was just enough movement so I could adjust my torque bars away from the hinges, while adjusting the door tension.
(another bonus to this job)
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 160
My VIN: 04629
I've had another problem(not me, my car) that I only had blower motor switch position #1, intermittent #2, NO #3, & #4. I checked fuse,OK...then I swapped relays, same problem again on lack of fan speed.
I then decided to use a mirror with various tools and remove the resistor bridge, attached to the blower motor case.
Well wouldn't you know it Mr. Corrosion strikes again....one bridge was rusted through(#3) and #2 wasn't too good either. So a visit to the local auto parts store and got a new one.
Now I can hear the relays "click" on fans speeds #3, #4. (don't remember hearing either one)
So.....all is good, another issue/project finished.
Old nasty transmission is mounted again. Hopefully it works better with the new clutch slave (since I had no idea the old one was bad before my aborted rebuilt transmission install hell).
I will thank all who recommended the cut off head bolts as a guide. Took minutes again to get it slotted in.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)