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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #7431
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,135

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-Ron View Post
    A case where longer may not be better.
    What I'm thinking is because that boot is extended, it may always pull off. I guess there is no lip on the axle ends to prevent the boots from pulling off. What I may do is move the smaller end in so the boot is not extended.
    Dave M vin 03572

  2. #7432
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,291

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I just noticed that the boot that is slipping off is clamped at 4.1 inches from the bolt surface and the one not slipping is 3.3 inches from the bolt surface. The shaft has a rolled stop where the small clamp goes so why is one side longer than the other? This is the new (vendor rebuilt) axle.

    The other axle (assume it OEM) that "roll" is 3.8 inches on each end.
    Super weird. I've never measured my axles but they are definitely OEM/factory - and yet no axle boot will stay on worth a crap.
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, April 2012 to present
    restoration log, March 2011 to April 2012
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  3. #7433
    Senior Member Chris 16409's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fresno, CA.

    Posts:    1,191

    My VIN:    16409

    Jon, there are some Porchse CV Boots that are longer. Those might stay on better as there are more "acordian folds". I had a link saved somewhere.
    Chris Miles

    For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
    1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California

  4. #7434
    Senior Member Citizen's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Houston, TX

    Posts:    674

    My VIN:    3341

    Driving the other day, I noticed my left blinker was blinking really fast, which is usually an indication a bulb is out. So I checked, and sure enough, the left rear blinker was not illuminating. I pulled the taillight assembly so to remove the bad bulb, so I can take it in with me to the parts store to get the correct replacement. But before I left, I tested the bulb with an ohms meter, and it appeared to be a good bulb after all.

    So I cleaned the contacts on the bulb, put it back in the assembly and tested it. It blinked just fine, and at the right speed, so I gently secured the taillight assembly back in place.

    Thing is, I've never had a bulb lose contact like that untouched. Now I'd like to clean all the contacts, but the old printed circuit boards are so old and delicate (over 35 years now) I'm afraid I'll scratch the metal off the board and have a bigger problem. Right now, all the lights are working, so I'm incline to leave well enough alone.


    Keeper of the DeLorean Owners Directory, at

  5. #7435
    Senior Member nkemp's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Buffalo MN

    Posts:    622

    My VIN:    897 5 spd,

    Quote Originally Posted by Citizen View Post
    Now I'd like to clean all the contacts, but the old printed circuit boards are so old and delicate (over 35 years now) I'm afraid I'll scratch the metal off the board and have a bigger problem....
    Thomas ... I wouldn't worry too much about the circuit board. They are not that fragile. The circuits are so simple that should you have a major problem you can fix sith jumpers. My car had a broken taillight after an accident. I limped it along with jumper wires for the circuit and strapped a paint stirrer on until I got the new board. It worked and nobody new from the outside. But they probably had a good laugh when they opened it to fix it.

    Two thoughts:
    1) Get some dielectric grease from the parts store and prior to reinstalling the lamps, add some grease to the contacts. Do this on all lamp and connector sockets. That will form an oxygen barrier and provide longer service. Auto mfrs used to do that prior to some of the better sealing sockets.
    2)The bulb socket connections on the circuit board are rivets and they lose continuity over time ... partially due to corrosion. An easy fix is to bolt through the hole and provide a better mechanical bond. I did a quick search for the fix but didn't find it. Take the circuit board to the hardware store and find the size that fits the holes.

    - No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
    - Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
    - The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".

  6. #7436
    Join Date:  Feb 2015

    Posts:    50

    Here is a link to for the taillight circuit board fix that Nick mentioned above:

  7. #7437
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    1,948

    My VIN:    4877

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    New boards dont cost that much, also, if youre worried about damaging the old ones.
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

  8. #7438
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,513

    My VIN:    02613

    Sorted some laundry on the hood. It's nice to have a large-ish flat surface in the garage for that.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  9. #7439
    Join Date:  Feb 2017

    Location:  Madison, MS

    Posts:    68

    Installed new evaporator and heater core this weekend and replaced all the missing/disintegrating foam in the cabin. While I was in there I replaced all the vacuum hoses with new silicone hose (except for the line to the heater valve). It was much cooler but something still didn't seem right. Found that the heater valve vacuum was disconnected in the engine bay. Fixed that, but soon realized the heater valve and re-circulation door weren't moving on MAX, but were actuating on DEFROST. Checked the mode switch and found that the nubs on the back of the rubber diaphragm were worn. Ordered a rebuild kit and installed it today, but no change. Hooked up a vacuum hose to the source on the mode switch and sat down with the chart from the workshop manual to figure out what was going on. It turned out the vacuum hoses were installed in reverse order on the back of the mode switch.

    I was extra careful to replace each line one at a time to be sure they didn't get mixed up. I now suspect they've been backwards as long as I've owned the car, which explains why my heater only seemed to work sporadically and even though the AC was leaky, it never quite seemed to cool like it should.

    It's too late now for a test drive, but I'm looking forward to trying it tomorrow. Even though Mississippi is in the middle of a cold snap, the high tomorrow is supposed to be 88 so that should make for perfect test conditions

  10. #7440
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,513

    My VIN:    02613

    Tried to sort out the courtesy light circuit. Those door switches are garbage. LOL
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

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