Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Jon, there are some Porchse CV Boots that are longer. Those might stay on better as there are more "acordian folds". I had a link saved somewhere.
Chris Miles
For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California
Driving the other day, I noticed my left blinker was blinking really fast, which is usually an indication a bulb is out. So I checked, and sure enough, the left rear blinker was not illuminating. I pulled the taillight assembly so to remove the bad bulb, so I can take it in with me to the parts store to get the correct replacement. But before I left, I tested the bulb with an ohms meter, and it appeared to be a good bulb after all.
So I cleaned the contacts on the bulb, put it back in the assembly and tested it. It blinked just fine, and at the right speed, so I gently secured the taillight assembly back in place.
Thing is, I've never had a bulb lose contact like that untouched. Now I'd like to clean all the contacts, but the old printed circuit boards are so old and delicate (over 35 years now) I'm afraid I'll scratch the metal off the board and have a bigger problem. Right now, all the lights are working, so I'm incline to leave well enough alone.
Thomas
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Thomas ... I wouldn't worry too much about the circuit board. They are not that fragile. The circuits are so simple that should you have a major problem you can fix sith jumpers. My car had a broken taillight after an accident. I limped it along with jumper wires for the circuit and strapped a paint stirrer on until I got the new board. It worked and nobody new from the outside. But they probably had a good laugh when they opened it to fix it.
Two thoughts:
1) Get some dielectric grease from the parts store and prior to reinstalling the lamps, add some grease to the contacts. Do this on all lamp and connector sockets. That will form an oxygen barrier and provide longer service. Auto mfrs used to do that prior to some of the better sealing sockets.
2)The bulb socket connections on the circuit board are rivets and they lose continuity over time ... partially due to corrosion. An easy fix is to bolt through the hole and provide a better mechanical bond. I did a quick search for the fix but didn't find it. Take the circuit board to the hardware store and find the size that fits the holes.
Nick
Nick
- No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
- Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
- The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".
Posts: 166
Here is a link to for the taillight circuit board fix that Nick mentioned above:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16...oard-screw-fix
Location: Tacoma, Wa
Posts: 2,208
My VIN: 4877
Club(s): (PNDC)
New boards dont cost that much, also, if youre worried about damaging the old ones.
Rob Depew
Tacoma, Wa
'81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
The Ressurection of 4877......
Website
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Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Sorted some laundry on the hood. It's nice to have a large-ish flat surface in the garage for that.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 87
My VIN: 3455
Installed new evaporator and heater core this weekend and replaced all the missing/disintegrating foam in the cabin. While I was in there I replaced all the vacuum hoses with new silicone hose (except for the line to the heater valve). It was much cooler but something still didn't seem right. Found that the heater valve vacuum was disconnected in the engine bay. Fixed that, but soon realized the heater valve and re-circulation door weren't moving on MAX, but were actuating on DEFROST. Checked the mode switch and found that the nubs on the back of the rubber diaphragm were worn. Ordered a rebuild kit and installed it today, but no change. Hooked up a vacuum hose to the source on the mode switch and sat down with the chart from the workshop manual to figure out what was going on. It turned out the vacuum hoses were installed in reverse order on the back of the mode switch.
I was extra careful to replace each line one at a time to be sure they didn't get mixed up. I now suspect they've been backwards as long as I've owned the car, which explains why my heater only seemed to work sporadically and even though the AC was leaky, it never quite seemed to cool like it should.
It's too late now for a test drive, but I'm looking forward to trying it tomorrow. Even though Mississippi is in the middle of a cold snap, the high tomorrow is supposed to be 88 so that should make for perfect test conditions
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Tried to sort out the courtesy light circuit. Those door switches are garbage. LOL
3.0L, automatic, carbureted