Just something to make it not look so bare. It looks better in person.
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Location: Treasure Island, FL
Posts: 138
My VIN: 10XXX
Club(s): (DCF)
Just something to make it not look so bare. It looks better in person.
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Steve Liggett
Treasure Island, FL
1982 automatic, VIN 10XXX, grey int
Previous: VIN 5983, VIN 3670
Who knows where my previous 1981 with 6 cylinder Chevy engine is these days (cannot find that VIN) ?
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 749
My VIN: 6720
Club(s): (AZ-D) (LVDG)
Annual clutch and brake circuit fluid flush.
Also bought a new (second) set of jacks on sale at Oreillys. I’ve been down to one pair since the recall from Harbor Freight earlier this year.
5 speed, grooved hood, grey interior (Nov '81)
QA1 coilovers, Delorean.eu LCA brackets, DPNW Poly swaybar bushings, DMCMW shock tower bar, Deloreana.com convex mirrors, DPNW Toby Tabs, DPI exhaust, C4 Corvette third brake light, PJ Grady tail light boards, Bitsyncmaster relays
I popped the upper control arm bushings out by hand... don't know why anyone is making all these weird contraptions to push them out
Also picked up a bunch of parts from the industrial cleaners
Location: Danvers, ma
Posts: 104
My VIN: 4328
This past weekend I Changed the manual transmission fluid w 80w90 valvoline gear oil. Took out the original craig radio and cleaned out all the potentiometers and knobs levers with contact cleaner electronic spray to remove all the crackling and speaker on/off issues. Installed poly sway bar bushing in the LCA's. Installed the front stainless license plate bracket so i can pass inspection in the spring. Installed new 3.5" Kicker speakers in the dash, new matching Kicker 4x10's coming in the mail for the rears next week. Annual oil and filter change with 15w40 Rotella T heavy duty diesel oil. Tightened some hose clamps. Installed new cool blue LED's in the AC panel to brighten things up a bit. Replaced the old crinkly vacuum house routing sticker in the engine bay. Took off the washer bottle box to unclog the washer pump from 40 yr old debris and also cleaned out the windshield washer nozzle and attached it to the wiper arm with black rtv adhesive. Finally I took her for a drive around on saturday cause it got up to 40 degrees!
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I try and edit these photos and save the sideways even to try and get the to go straight when i post but they just won't. Can anyone tell me how to get this right?
Last edited by TheStoot; 12-28-2020 at 06:53 AM.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Posts: 743
I try and edit these photos and save the sideways even to try and get the to go straight when i post but they just won't. Can anyone tell me how to get this right?[/QUOTE]
I've had this problem on other forums , try turning off auto rotate and take the pictures in landscape mode only.. dunno if its phone specific but works for me on my last 2 phones.
Shane
only from the past can we choose the correct path for the future...
The upper control arm bushings are a press-fit design so if the bushings could be removed from the arms by hand, that is cause for concern. I see a lot of pitting in the photo which would indicate that there was quite a bit of corrosion prior to cleaning. There is a tight tolerance between the parts to create the interference/press fit to keep the bushing seated in the arm properly and prevent it from rotating.
Once that tolerance is lost and the bushing is free to rotate the control arm, you'll be wearing metal on metal between the bushing and the arm instead of the rubber in the bushing twisting as the suspension articulates.
Since the rubber bushings aren't available separately (unless you're replacing them with poly bushings) I'd seriously be considering replacing the upper control arms. They come as a complete assembly with the bushings already installed.
Otherwise if you are reusing the arms and bushings you'd have to cobble something together to fix the parts so they don't move relative to each other.
- You could reassemble the bushings into the arms and add a couple of tack welds to hold in the bushings in place. (This may burn or degrade the rubber in the bushing due to the heat from welding)
- Or you could weld in some backing plates into the arms that have a smaller ID hole that fits the bushings correctly for a press fit.
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 749
My VIN: 6720
Club(s): (AZ-D) (LVDG)
I went to replace my shifter linkage bushings. Rear one was shot, but I bought a full set just because. The others don’t have play, but it can’t hurt.
The rear bolt was fucked up and stuck in the shifter extension, I ended up having to remove the extension and cut the bolt with a hacksaw. It was all mushroomed and boogered up the extension, so I ordered a new one.
I also removed the shifter assembly to give it a good cleaning and lube.
5 speed, grooved hood, grey interior (Nov '81)
QA1 coilovers, Delorean.eu LCA brackets, DPNW Poly swaybar bushings, DMCMW shock tower bar, Deloreana.com convex mirrors, DPNW Toby Tabs, DPI exhaust, C4 Corvette third brake light, PJ Grady tail light boards, Bitsyncmaster relays
Location: England
Posts: 112
My VIN: 07164
Club(s): (DCH)
Chipping away at the body off restoration.
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Getting pretty close to being able to get the wheels back on and Body/Transmission back in.