My point of contact was the wire connector housing.
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
My point of contact was the wire connector housing.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 1,147
My VIN: 1880
Club(s): (DCO) (DCUK)
Same problem here. In fact, the cover ended up pushing the connector off and killing my fuel pump during a DeLorean driving tour! I recommend a zip tie around the connector just to make sure it can’t get pushed off/unclipped by the cover on top of it.
Patrick C.
VIN 1880
Andy Lien
VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023
Photography and Backpacking is life.
Was Fargo, ND
Now Kansas City
Finally got around to installing the "A/C bump" feature that comes with Dave's McKeen's microprocessor idle ECU.
For those wondering which wire you tap into, it's the pink one with the diode in the relay compartment.
IMG_20210703_151528.jpg
Posts: 1,254
Location: Austin MN
Posts: 586
My VIN: 03500
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
I have a question about the cooling system flush I am currently doing. I hadn't replaced or flushed out the coolant for a long time and even back when it got done, it was my mechanic helping so I don't really know what got done or what didn't.
Anyway, I got at it on the weekend. I disconnected the hoses attaching to the engine at the water pump at the ends that connect to the pipes. On the passenger side this is the one that tees up and into the reservoir and the one on the driver's side connects to the otterstat pipe. I also disconnected the hose and pipe at the bottom corner of the radiator on the passenger side. I gave it a good rinsing using the spray nozzle on the end of my garden hose. I'm confident all the old coolant is out along with any funk that might have been sitting in there.
What I'm not sure about is the engine block. I hadn't really given much thought to unplugging the coolant drain plugs and so was reading up on misadventures and the like other guys have had. I tried to get the passenger side one off, but couldn't get a good grip nor clear access and thought better of trying to really lean into it and ruin something.
That being said, I thought I would be able to use the garden hose spray nozzle in the end of either hose connected to the water pump and spray it through like that. It doesn't let me though. Like any kind of moderate water pressure I get using the spray nozzle and a rag to try and seal it just fills the hose and then comes back out the way it came in. It doesn't pour out the opposite hose like I thought it might.
Is this normal or is it telling me I have some plugged yuck in there? I know I am trying to force it through the water pump, but having never removed mine or looked closely at how they are made, I'm not sure what the impeller blades or whatever it is look like. I'm guessing you can't force water past the pump like this because the passages are too small and won't let water freely by without it spinning? Anyone know? Thanks.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937