What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[JBaker4981]

I have a question about the cooling system flush I am currently doing. I hadn't replaced or flushed out the coolant for a long time and even back when it got done, it was my mechanic helping so I don't really know what got done or what didn't.

Anyway, I got at it on the weekend. I disconnected the hoses attaching to the engine at the water pump at the ends that connect to the pipes. On the passenger side this is the one that tees up and into the reservoir and the one on the driver's side connects to the otterstat pipe. I also disconnected the hose and pipe at the bottom corner of the radiator on the passenger side. I gave it a good rinsing using the spray nozzle on the end of my garden hose. I'm confident all the old coolant is out along with any funk that might have been sitting in there.

What I'm not sure about is the engine block. I hadn't really given much thought to unplugging the coolant drain plugs and so was reading up on misadventures and the like other guys have had. I tried to get the passenger side one off, but couldn't get a good grip nor clear access and thought better of trying to really lean into it and ruin something.

That being said, I thought I would be able to use the garden hose spray nozzle in the end of either hose connected to the water pump and spray it through like that. It doesn't let me though. Like any kind of moderate water pressure I get using the spray nozzle and a rag to try and seal it just fills the hose and then comes back out the way it came in. It doesn't pour out the opposite hose like I thought it might.

Is this normal or is it telling me I have some plugged yuck in there? I know I am trying to force it through the water pump, but having never removed mine or looked closely at how they are made, I'm not sure what the impeller blades or whatever it is look like. I'm guessing you can't force water past the pump like this because the passages are too small and won't let water freely by without it spinning? Anyone know? Thanks.

If the problem is flushing the rest of the coolant out of the system, you can take off the passenger side deflector in the rear wheel well and gain access to the hose that comes off of the back of the Water Pump and goes to the heater core. The thermostat will open this feed up at temperature so you wont be touching this closed system with your hose pipe.

For what it's worth, I'd also pop the Engine Block Drain Plugs with PB and let it soak for a half hour and then unscrew the drain plugs. That way you are sure to flush all the coolant out of the engine and Y-Pipe coming from the back of the WP.

[JBaker4981]

In today's question of 'What have you done to your DeLorean today?', I answer with:

I opened the door, got a whiff of that lovely DeLorean smell, closed the door, and continued my way to the chest freezer for pizza.

True Story. Also this is my petty attempt at my 200th post.

[Michael]

I opened the door, got a whiff of that lovely DeLorean smell.

That would be the scent of burnt Lucas electronics mixed with the rich aroma of the kids college fund and a soupçon of mildew.

[JBaker4981]

That would be the scent of burnt Lucas electronics mixed with the rich aroma of the kids college fund and a soupçon of mildew.

You most certainly are not wrong

[iflights]

Installed Toby's DPNW front shock tower brace. This coupled with my earlier installation of Toby's front poly sway bar bushings has made the handling so much better. Couldn't exactly feel any difference after the poly bushing install by itself, but with the shock tower brace in place, I do feel a difference in front end deflection on these terrible Michigan roads. Last FE alignment was done about 5 years ago and might need to dial it in further this fall.

[Helirich]

Installed Toby's DPNW front shock tower brace. This coupled with my earlier installation of Toby's front poly sway bar bushings has made the handling so much better. Couldn't exactly feel any difference after the poly bushing install by itself, but with the shock tower brace in place, I do feel a difference in front end deflection on these terrible Michigan roads. Last FE alignment was done about 5 years ago and might need to dial it in further this fall.

I find it hard to believe this can make much differnce. But your statement is forcing me to make a cheap strong one to try. If I like it, I will probably have to buy one like yours. (I like the design features) Thanks for the update.

[MrChocky]

Finally got around to installing the "A/C bump" feature that comes with Dave's McKeen's microprocessor idle ECU.

For those wondering which wire you tap into, it's the pink one with the diode in the relay compartment.

Attachment 66801

Thanks for this. Finally got around to doing it. Looking forward to stalling less often.

[Michael]

I find it hard to believe this can make much differnce. But your statement is forcing me to make a cheap strong one to try. If I like it, I will probably have to buy one like yours. (I like the design features) Thanks for the update.

The strut tower brace makes a HUGE difference in the front end feel through the curves, especially if you are running stiffer suspension.

20210726_161747.jpg

[MrChocky]

Thanks for this. Finally got around to doing it. Looking forward to stalling less often.

Followup; just went for a drive in the midday heat, and it makes a huge difference. Of course, I've never driven another
manual (and there's no A/C on my auto), but reading the service records suggests the car has had a history of issues
of stalling at stop with A/C on. This has gradually gotten less bad with maintenance I've done, but this last change is
a big deal.

[Helirich]

The strut tower brace makes a HUGE difference in the front end feel through the curves, especially if you are running stiffer suspension.

20210726_161747.jpg

So what's the deal with your fancy gas cap? Also, what are the two boxes on the pax side?

Ps, with the tower brace you have, can you remove the spare with only one side off? How about checking the brake fluid?