I drove my car for the second time this year. Moved it about 25 feet forward out of my garage so I could get my riding mower out, and then reversed back into place.
So if I've got my math right, I've got around 100 ft so far this driving season.
<In my best Cliff Clavin voice from Cheers>
Well, technically, you have zero feet so far on your driving season if you take into account the reverse rotation of the speedometer drive and the front left wheel. It's a little known fact that, ah... lol.
Looking good anyway. Hope to see some more of those beauty sunrise pics you're so good at capturing.
Took my binnacle off. opened the cluster to remove a dead mosquito that has been there since last century, and swapped out the lights for LEDs (except Alt light). I also kept the Headlight and Brights bulbs regular - some folks commented that those are too bright for night driving with LEDs. A few of my bulbs were dead - so nice to have it all working again. and no dead bug.
Took my binnacle off. opened the cluster to remove a dead mosquito that has been there since last century, and swapped out the lights for LEDs (except Alt light). I also kept the Headlight and Brights bulbs regular - some folks commented that those are too bright for night driving with LEDs. A few of my bulbs were dead - so nice to have it all working again. and no dead bug.
Yeah, they are. My fault for getting "SuperBrightLEDs". In this particular case, I'd prefer some "NoQuiteSoBrightLEDs".
Yeah, they are. My fault for getting "SuperBrightLEDs". In this particular case, I'd prefer some "NoQuiteSoBrightLEDs".
Yeah, after doing the AC panel it's a bit too bright. I have the Jumper in place so it only comes on with the headlights. it would be nice to maybe drop the brightness - i'm wondering if a resistor of some sort in the jumper could do that? The dimmer has no effect on the AC panel.
Yeah, after doing the AC panel it's a bit too bright. I have the Jumper in place so it only comes on with the headlights. it would be nice to maybe drop the brightness - i'm wondering if a resistor of some sort in the jumper could do that? The dimmer has no effect on the AC panel.
Given how cheap the LEDs are, I'd probably just be looking at some less bright ones, rather than messing with wiring.
I don't know about the A/C panel dimming, but I've got DM's dome light dimmer yet to fit. The only incandescents left on my car are the highbeams and the battery bulb.
I got my 2-post Bendpak lift delivered last Monday, spent a few hours over the week opening it up and moving it around. Good thing I was able to rent a Bobcat with a fork attachment - these things are HEAVY! I had a neighbor come over and help me get the posts upright, and then spent the weekend getting it all setup. I've got it all together except for the electrical - I have to run some wire all the way across the shop, and that means picking up a new skill I don't have: conduit bending!
If all goes well, I think by this next weekend I'll have the lift all working and I'll be able to tackle a few jobs:
* Figure out why the car won't start! Was running great last week, now the starter doesn't make any noise. I suspect a bad ground.
* Replace lower speedo cable
* Replace both hand brake cables
* Investigate some squeaks in the rear
* Oh yeah, replace the transmission!!
Replaced my AC compressor. No slurpy sound from the vacuum pump after about 10 minutes... that's a good sign. Charged it up and the AC is spitting ice cubes again.
(The pic is taking from below the car and up. It needs to be rotated 90deg to the right.)
VR6 engine (367 rwhp/377 ftlb); Type T4 turbo; A/R=0.70/0.68; Air-to-air intercooler, Megasquirt MS3 Pro, Manual tranny w/ HD output shaft; Remote mounted oil filter.
Adjustable dampers and ride height springs from QA1/DriveStainless; SS triangulated LCA brackets, boxed in LCAs, PU bushings, ventilated front brake rotors - all from DMCEU; UCAs with -3 deg camber from Reid Performance; 15" rear rims x 4 http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com
So this weekend I finally got my Lambda system working! I had previously tried a different frequency valve (mine never buzzed since I got the car) and an O2 sensor but those did nothing. I was able to try a different Lambda ECU and Bam, frequency valve started buzzing! Now I have driven this car over 2000 miles since october without a working lambda system so I figured that this was just the way my car was going to be. I changed out the O2 sensor again and dialed in my dwell and took it for a drive and it's got much more power than it had in the past. My exhaust doesn't pop off when i let off the gas anymore (5-speed). For anyone who might be in the same position I was with a lambda system or frequency valve that doesn't work, def try and fix it because it makes a quite a difference in the way your car will run and perform. I thought my car ran great before but I was wrong. I never had idle issues or starting issues or anything either.
Also Installed one of those USB charger cigarette lighter replacements that also shows your battery voltage. Pretty easy install, just gotta grind the hole a little bit bigger to fit the new one in, but only a 1/16th of an inch or less. Not a bad little upgrade as I never really used the stock cigarette lighter for anything and If I did, I needed to plug in an adapter that converted it to usb ports.
This week I have new fuel lines for the frequency valve and the return line from the fuel distributor to the hard line coming in. I had never replaced those because my frequency valve never worked so I figured why bother? I also ordered the ribbed headlight trim piece for in between the headlights cause Seeing the gaps always bothered me so that'll get done too.
Now I'm just looking forward to the end of the month when the car shows really start to kick off, and we also have our NERD (North East Regional Delorean) tech day coming up to help others with some installs of parts that they've been collecting and waiting to install