What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[81dmc]

Replaced the fuel accumulator. Hot start issue is gone

On a side note, I didn’t think it was that difficult at all. I mean, it wasn’t the easiest thing in the world, but it wasn’t nearly as tough as I expected. Took maybe 20 or so minutes remove and the same to install. Was the difficulty overhyped or am I that incredible of a mechanic?

It's not too difficult, but sometimes the fittings don't want to seal...

[Farrar]

Disconnected my old parcel shelf lighting (LED strip shining through the holes in the window trim). With the new dome light installed in the rear headliner, there's no need for it anymore.

Can't upload any photos here, so I'll try to make a link to one.

[mark w]

Rebuilding my Steering rack. Using Grady's DIY kit.

[nkemp]

... With the new dome light installed in the rear headliner

What did you use for a light? And .... looks good and bright

[jackb]

Good to hear... on the accumulator and that the forum is back up

As for overhyped difficulty... I'd love to hear how you replaced yours. What steps you followed or procedure you used or any tricks you used to make it easier? And what tools you used and whether on jack stands or ramps or whatever.

It was really straightforward. Remove the hard fitting, remove the bracket holding it in place, lower it and take off the hoses. Installation in reverse.

I had the car on 4 jackstands, but not very high. Just enough to get under. I measured it after reading your questions before downjacking it- the bottom of the body was 12” off the ground.

I had a small handheld flashlight and a magnetic mounted flashlight (the free LED types that Harbor Freight gives away). I stuck the magnetic one inside the frame, and used the handheld one either poking through a hole behind the accumulator or in my mouth.

As for tools, I actually had to use a crescent wrench on the hard fitting. My biggest stubby wrench is only 15mm and the line is 17mm. That was the time consuming part. I would get about 1/6 of a turn at a time. I used a 10mm socket on an extension to remove the bracket. It was the original accumulator, but had been removed at some point in the cars history (but not in the last 13 years- I’ve owned it for nine years, and the PO for four years before me and I know he did not touch it). I know it was removed at some point because one of the bolts for the bracket holding it in had a nut behind it, not a nutplate, so I had to maneuver a wrench onto the nut to hold it.

I also found an old 13mm wrench in the frame just forward of the access hole, lol.

I swapped over the forward fitting out of the vehicle and tightened it. I connected the forward hose while under the car before putting the accumulator in place.

To install it, it was impossible to hold the accumulator in place while turning the hard line fitting (only enough space for one hand at a time). What I ended up doing was holding the accumulator in place with one hand, sticking an open end wrench through a small hole in the frame aft of the accumulator and hooking it under the nipple on the back of the part to hold it up in place. While I held the wrench (and by extension, the accumulator) with one hand, I now had the access hole clear to put the bracket on with the other hand. Once the bracket was in position, I moved the wrench to hold it, and was able to thread in (but not tighten) the bolts with the other hand.
From that point, the accumulator was in position, and I was able to turn the hard fitting onto the threads. After maybe one thread though there was too much resistance to do it by hand, and it was back to the crescent wrench. After the hard fitting was tight, I hooked up the rear hose, double checked all clamps, and started it up for a leak check. Good to go.

Side note: I have been an aircraft mechanic for 19 years, so it’s all relative. I’ve done plenty of miserable difficult jobs with garbage access.

[DMC-81]

^ Yes, I find fuel accumulators are like window regulators. The first one can take 50 hours to do.... 49 for figuring out tools and techniques and 1 hour to swap the part.

[Jonathan]

Thanks for the explanation, Jack. And measuring the space and all the details. That last comment helps with context too and so does what Dana said... past experience as an aircraft mechanic and shortening the time considerably the 2nd or 3rd time you do something!

My accumulator got replaced around 7 years ago and I paid a shop to do it for me. Too inexperienced at the time to do it myself and not enough of the right tools then either. I'd like to get back under there though to access the rubber hoses (the short ones right at the accumulator) and also replace the hardline going back to the filter with a hose I got for that spot. I should have already done this, years ago really, but haven't. It's not hurting anything the way it is, just one more thing on the to-do list and stuff in the parts box I'd like to clear out.

[CFI]

Unplugged the door lock module and removed the door light fuse.

[nkemp]

Currently replacing the previous set of binnacle LED's with a new set from DeLoreanGo. The old illumination set (the top 4 and the odometer LED) was so dim I couldn't see the instruments. The new ones are MUCH brighter.

The trouble/challenge is getting the LED's oriented right so that they light when needed (you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right but I beat hose odds
- Alternator and oil light if in the run position with the engine off.
- The door is easy if the connectors are attached ... open it.
- Actuate the turn signals, low and high beams to verify.
- For brake, pull the lever.
- Faking out the Lambda is pretty simple (jumper the plug) ... but do we really care?
- The low fuel light is still TBD if it is oriented right (looks like I need to open the fuel pump area and jumper the plug). I currently don't have a low fuel sensor but I want it to work should that ever change.

The most troubling so far is that seatbelt warning is not working and it is not the LED orientation (neither orientations work). I need some way to fake that one before I put back together (or I may swap with a working one and maintain orientation relative to ground). Then I can chase down later why the seatbelt warning is not working.

BTW ... I have a PWM dimmer (speed controller) that could be used to dim the dash illumination lights. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The DeLorean rheostat is a 6mm hex shaft. Most modern day stuff is round, splined and about 5mm. So I need to resolve putting a smaller round peg in a hex hole before I can proceed.

[nkemp]

Currently replacing the previous set of binnacle LED's with a new set from DeLoreanGo. ...

The most troubling so far is that seatbelt warning is not working and it is not the LED orientation...

Seatbelt problem solved ... operator error ... the seatbelt warning timer had expired. Works fine. Binnacle reinstalled.