Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
I sprayed carb/MAF cleaner & then penetrating oil into mine. I also have a pigtail that I use to exercise the motor full CW & CCW. As I recall, the center pin is 12Vdc and tapping either of the other two to ground moves it CW or CCW. Do not wire in any other configuration or failure may result.
If it is particularly gunked up, plug an end and let the penetrating oil sit and do its thing.
Anyone have any other methods?
Nick
- No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
- Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
- The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".
I may be able to answer my own question with this link:-
http://www.k-jet.org/articles/inform...ging-guide/#41
Enjoy
Location: FL
Posts: 948
My VIN: Early
Grounded the steering column in preparation for my horn slip ring.
image.jpg
Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3
Today, I finished removing the top door seal brackets to put new seals on them. Drilling 16 rivets out with the outer door skin in close proximity was stressful. I got it done though by taking my time and measuring clearances, plus following an online guide which was great. I am trying to do this job without completely removing the T panel which is glued securely in the middle.
Carefully lifting the rear portion of the T panel slightly..
image.jpg
I put a 3/8" clear vinyl hose over the torsion bars and further protected the area with a towel. One rivet drilled out..
image.jpg
And so on until all rivets were done. I slid the seal bracket down slightly. Then closed the door. I used a pick through the holes in the bracket to slide the seal unit rearward and under the T panel. Then I had the bottom half of the rivets to deal with.
image.jpg
I carefully drilled them just enough so they would drop in the door cavity..
image.jpg
Old crusty seals and new ones..
image.jpg
I also noticed the my striker guides had some rusty screw heads..
image.jpg
I took them off, cleaned and re-grained the guides and installed SS equivalent screws...
image.jpg
Much better looking..
image.jpg
Next weekend I'll install the new seals.
Last edited by DMC-81; 07-31-2016 at 11:02 PM.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
Posts: 76
What a car to own for a guy like you, eh? LOL.
I understand though. How do you do when you're approached filling up or in a parking lot?
BEAUTIFUL. Do you ever drive roads with those underglow lights on?
I think in Cali I'd be screwed. It's too bad these aren't really road legal AFAIK.
I like the BTTF feel it gives without actually converting anything. I might have to do something like this when I get a D. I don't really fancy the idea of all that stuff hanging off a car I'd probably enjoy driving to more than car shows and it's nice to see cars that remind me of the movie car without actually being one. Looks great!
Last edited by toyotafreak88; 08-01-2016 at 04:33 AM.
Sure! It was written by John Spangler. http://www.johnspangler.com/DMC/roofseals.html
Not completely removing the T panel was my only deviation. I'll see if that works when I install the new ones.
I also measured the clearances and put them in photo comments on my interior restoration album if that helps any.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)