What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Ron]

Ran an injector spray test (six bottles and pump running, press the air plate) and all six look very good with very even amount of flow.

I really thought this was going to show it was my skipping problem but not so.

I have a new set of ignition wires from DPI cumming in today so I hope that fixes it. I just don't think that will fix it.

Have you tried pulling one plug wire at a time to determine if it is one specific cylinder (or cylinders) or random?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Have you tried pulling one plug wire at a time to determine if it is one specific cylinder (or cylinders) or random?

That's what I should have tried first. No Since I have new wires coming in I will change them all. If those fix it I will ohm the wires just to make sure.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I resistance checked the old wires. Shortest one was 700 ohms, longest was 1200 ohms, others were between.

I updated the software in my wideband LM2 and retested the tail pipe AFR. Still the AFR reads around 15.2 at RPM above idle. This is the reason I don't think my problem is fixed. I even tried a new wideband sensor with the same result.

I also adjusted my curb idle. I've had to hit the gas to get my engine started and never had to do that before. I guess when I pulled the mixture unit that curb idle adjustment changed. That may have also added to the idle hunt when the lambda first goes closed loop. I will have to see how it starts after the engine cools off.

I tested the resistance of the distributor pick up coil at 710 ohms so it looks normal.

[Spittybug]

I resistance checked the old wires. Shortest one was 700 ohms, longest was 1200 ohms, others were between.

I updated the software in my wideband LM2 and retested the tail pipe AFR. Still the AFR reads around 15.2 at RPM above idle. This is the reason I don't think my problem is fixed. I even tried a new wideband sensor with the same result.

I also adjusted my curb idle. I've had to hit the gas to get my engine started and never had to do that before. I guess when I pulled the mixture unit that curb idle adjustment changed. That may have also added to the idle hunt when the lambda first goes closed loop. I will have to see how it starts after the engine cools off.

I tested the resistance of the distributor pick up coil at 710 ohms so it looks normal.

Dave, I think you would get such a kick out of the Megasquirt system given your electronic aptitude....

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave, I think you would get such a kick out of the Megasquirt system given your electronic aptitude....

Maybe someday I will change to EFI. My K-jet never gave me problems for 10 years. This is my first problem.

[Spittybug]

Maybe someday I will change to EFI. My K-jet never gave me problems for 10 years. This is my first problem.

The hard part is the physical integration. Software and tuning wise... pretty straightforward.

As I no longer have a horse in this race and sold off all the spare parts with it, I can't tinker. What I would do if I ever did it again would be to keep the existing manifold, tap in some injector bungs through the sides, one above each runner, and either do what Darcom did with dual throttle bodies in place of the W horn pipe or use the stock throttle body mated to a wide open fuel metering housing. I'd consider a fuel rail header somewhere with flexible hoses to each injector if possible. Alternatively, use one big injector per bank, mounted in the W horn pipe..... The key with this engine seems to be in keeping the incoming air velocity high. For a long time I had too big of a throttle body diameter which bogged me down when accelerating, combined with the Peugeot manifold that has much shorter runners. Solution was to simply put a restriction plate behind the throttle body to keep the velocity from dropping.

If I could find a stock manifold setup locally I would love to tinker......just for the fun of creating a drop in solution for someone.

[FABombjoy]

The hard part is the physical integration.

I think the formula is pretty established at this point and you can leave most of the intake as-is. DPI even sells rails and locks with the proper 108mm spacing if you don't want to do that part and lots of bolt-on parts to clean up from de-kjetting.
-Gut meter housing, plug all the holes
-1 standard extrusion fuel rail per bank
-6 standard 19lb or higher injectors. EV12 type injectors spray right toward the valves if clocked in.
-Hoses: filter to rail, rail to rail, rail to regulator, regulator to return
-There's a half dozen ways to solve the PCV, vapor, and idle air control

We converted Patrick C's car in a weekend with very little pre-built. Friday morning K-jet, Sunday night Megasquirt.

Wiring probably takes the longest. We spent a fair amount of time deleting superfluous wiring, depinning, and unwrapping/rewrapping harnesses.

[Delorean Industries]

Fuel rails with injectors

https://deloreanindustries.com/spec-...t-w-injectors/


Fuel rails stand alone

https://deloreanindustries.com/delor...fuel-rail-set/

delorean industries fuel rail.jpg

delorean industries fuel rail with injectors.jpg

[Spittybug]

That's great! None of that was available 11 or so years ago when I did mine. So much easier now, I don't know why anyone with a non-concourse car would spend money on K-Jet repairs.....

[Bitsyncmaster]

That's great! None of that was available 11 or so years ago when I did mine. So much easier now, I don't know why anyone with a non-concourse car would spend money on K-Jet repairs.....

It still takes someone capable of understanding how it all works and has good mechanical and electrical experience. But you guys got me thinking. So do you pressure regulate your fuel supply by a return line from a regulator? I've always been thinking of an electronic control of the fuel pump so as not to need a return line to the tank. But with K-jet your need that return line which is part of the mixture control.