Installed my new throttle cable, and it definitely feels whole lot easier to push! I guess there was some rust in there...
Also saw the Domino's Delorean at DMCH today.
IMG_20180426_1306524.jpg
Location: FL
Posts: 947
My VIN: Early
Installed my new throttle cable, and it definitely feels whole lot easier to push! I guess there was some rust in there...
Also saw the Domino's Delorean at DMCH today.
IMG_20180426_1306524.jpg
Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 847
My VIN: 5625
+1 on the trunk and hood work. Awesome job! I have tried for a long time to master that SEM paint. I took notes...
You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Posts: 520
My VIN: 5312
I wish Domino's would deliver me a pizza in the Domino's DeLorean~_~
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 202
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Originally Posted by iflights
Thanks!
DeLorean DMC-12 (October 1981)
Manual transmission. Grooved hood. Grey interior. Rear antenna.
Obsessive perfectionist and 64th annual 2019 Hillsborough Concours D'Elegance class winner.
Location: Yorkshire UK
Posts: 198
My VIN: No. 4068
Yesterday, after removing the accumulated crap that surrounded the car in the garage, and giving the car a quick once over, I took it in for its yearly MOT test, and it passed. I'm well chuffed and feeling simply, simply, lovely
I just need to take it to the petrol station, fill it up to make sure there is plenty in the tank for a bit of blinding driving
Last edited by NckT; 04-29-2018 at 11:10 AM.
RIP Rob van de VeerTop bloke
I say Sir, I must be mad, one loves fixing K-Jet !
Make sure there's plenty in the tank for the weekend chaps....
Posts: 301
My VIN: 02855
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Did some work on the Mongoose DMC this week.
First, I completed my replacement of the rear suspension links. the car came with modified control arms, shortened, but also smaller diameter with poly bushings. Due to the articulation and radius swing of the trailing arm, which is also heavily modified (the rear track is about 6" narrower), the poly bushings kept popping out. I also didnt trust the strength of the arms, either.
So, for the upper, which is about 6" long (stock is about 9") I replaced the link with a heim joint setup on one side, and a nylon rod-end on the other. the link on the hub side moves with the radius of the arm, so there is not much flex. the link on the car side has the most deflection, so I installed a 3 piece QA1 hiem joint with high misalignment spacer. The aluminium hex tube (Joes Racing, sourced from Jegs) in between is threaded L/R so, its now also easy (but hard to get to with the tire on the car) for alignment adjustments, where before you had to remove the link to adjust it.
for the lower, I wanted to reintroduce some flex, but also reintroduce the resistance of movement front-to-back, so that not all the forces of braking and acceleration are taken up by the front TAB bolt. to do this I went with stock arms and stock bushings, but again shortened by 3" each and installing Grady adjusters, for maximum adjustment of alignment. I have raised the car 1" from it original modified ride height, so alignment adjustment is needed.
I also this week removed the CV axles, and found what I expected, heavily worn out CV joints. Caused by broken boots and the severe operating angle of my axles, because the car is so low, they are never horizontal, always angled up toward the wheels. I needed to replace 3 of the 4, so I went with all 4, sourced from my local Porsche parts place and new boots from Grady. My axles are custom made, and 18” long (stock I think is 21”).
31189637_10156499607022160_2578480902695676773_n.jpg31056837_10156499606922160_7114895128371255524_n.jpg30171616_10156508918897160_346048222512166500_o.jpg30171888_10156502206627160_6977807645306562998_o.jpg30171964_10156517272527160_5165362381525136850_o.jpg31403976_10156516333232160_5740285436016682165_n.jpg
Location: Central Cali
Posts: 302
My VIN: 5087
Changed the 8 year old oil a few days ago. Now the car is on jack stands and I'm about to start the process of pulling the transmission to rebuild or replace it (I hope).
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
This, among other things.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 847
My VIN: 5625
This is a job I have to do as well. Is it a big deal to pull the old throttle cable out and feed the new one through?
You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Posts: 520
My VIN: 5312
My throttle cable snapped on me driving once so I have done this as well. Its very straight forward pull the old cable out through where it goes up into the sleeve behind your pedal. You can then lube and run the new cable through the old sleeve quite easily. make sure the cable is pulled nicely through and you dont have any give on the pedals when tightening it down on the other end at the throttle. I actually ran some warm soapy water and forced it through with an compressor from the engine side of the cable and put an empty bucket at the other end under the dash to try to get some of the crud from inside of the cable out. After i did that i blew just air through then i blew a some co2 out to force any moisture out. Grabbed my new cable lightly greased it and ran it through. Took about 20 mins in total. Really easy and the new cable +cleaning made the pedal silky smooth
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote