I used these: https://www.harborfreight.com/15-pie...set-93667.html
Every once in a while this wrench set is invaluable. Angle drive was one of those times!
I used these: https://www.harborfreight.com/15-pie...set-93667.html
Every once in a while this wrench set is invaluable. Angle drive was one of those times!
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Nick
- No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
- Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
- The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".
Nice, Harbor Freight of course, they have everything. I have a nice set of stubby metric wrenches but they only go up to 22mm. Thanks!
I never saw the 85mph speedo run as it just came in a box. My guess is the cable was binding at the PO used it as an excuse to swtich to the 170. I switched to a one piece cable and took the lambda counter of the car so the system has changed a lot.
When I took the lower speedo cable off of the angle drive water started to pour out of the cabling. In fact, that angle drive died while I was driving in 15F weather so it probably froze solid and bound the cable up.
I got a 32mm wrench for the angle drive nut. For some reason the 1.25" i got didnt work. If you turn the wheel all the way to the left, you can get a standard wrench in easy. I think i slightly raised my car then pulled up to loosen the nut. You could even use a floor jack for leverage.
I have a 32mm fan clutch wrench I might try next time. And yeah, did the floor jack trick to bust it loose.
Location: FL
Posts: 948
My VIN: Early
Finished assembling my HVAC box today with new evaporator and heater cores from DMCH. Will install this weekend if I can fix the water leak from the fresh air intake...
Project Capture.jpg It drips between the metal intake and the fiberglass body.
Here's a few pics of the heater side of the HVAC box.
IMG_20180608_1958485.jpgIMG_20180608_1959077.jpg
Here's the flaps. Used rustoleum rust reformer and gray enamel as final coat. IMG_20180608_1843390-panorama.jpg
The awful smell pushed me to pull the box. I just couldn't take it anymore.
IMG_20180607_1804540.jpgIMG_20180607_1806170.jpg
Disgusting!
Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 237
My VIN: 10353
Finally got around to installing my louvre brace, needed a flexible dremel bit to drill out the holes. Wish the hardware came painted black as well.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
New tires. Cha-ching.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Roof cage "fix" part one: drilled holes and installed fasteners.
(Cured neither of the problems I was having with the doors, but managed to render the rear headliner useless in the process: original clip got stuck at tore out of the cardboard. When installing the replacement headliner later, I'll be sure to grease the clip a little bit.)
Part two (sealing the fasteners with RTV and putting the T panel back on) will come later. It's too hot in the garage to work for more than a couple of hours at a time.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted