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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #7411
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

    Posts:    185

    Quote Originally Posted by Lwanmtr View Post
    Yaay purple. How did you fix them to the car?
    Recently I replaced all the screws attaching the vinyl trim to the fiberglass under-body (managed to come up with a technique to extract the screws without stripping the head or spinning the nutsert). Now that those screws are new stainless with anti-sieze, they can be easily removed. The LEDs are attached to 1 1/4 inch aluminum angle. On the top side of the angle I drilled oversize holes. I have some longer stainless screws with fender washers that hold the angle (lighting rail). I use about four of these to hold the lights. So I remove four of the regular screws and secure the lighting rail with the longer screws. The oversize holes in the angle just fits over any of the screws I don't remove. The lighting rail connects to a power plug in the rear. I reverse the process when I want to remove the rails.

    Ron

  2. #7412
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    1,864

    My VIN:    4877

    Cool. Seems simple enough. I havent even attempted to take any of those panels off...hehe.
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

  3. #7413
    Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2015

    Posts:    41

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-Ron View Post
    Recently I replaced all the screws attaching the vinyl trim to the fiberglass under-body (managed to come up with a technique to extract the screws without stripping the head or spinning the nutsert). Now that those screws are new stainless with anti-sieze, they can be easily removed. The LEDs are attached to 1 1/4 inch aluminum angle. On the top side of the angle I drilled oversize holes. I have some longer stainless screws with fender washers that hold the angle (lighting rail). I use about four of these to hold the lights. So I remove four of the regular screws and secure the lighting rail with the longer screws. The oversize holes in the angle just fits over any of the screws I don't remove. The lighting rail connects to a power plug in the rear. I reverse the process when I want to remove the rails.

    Ron
    What was your technique you came up with?
    Thanks

  4. #7414
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    6,945

    My VIN:    03572

    clutch replace

    Jacked the car up. Front on ramps, back on jack stands. Removed both axles. I think I've read the starter comes out and detach all the linkage next.

    Anyway the one new axle looks like one clamp on the boot is not holding since the boot is pulling off. Also the new Allen cap bolts I used (black oxide) have rusted on the heads but look good otherwise. I wonder if plated bolts would be better. Not sure if stainless bolts are strong enough for axle bolts. I think in shear loads SS is fine.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #7415
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,282

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Jacked the car up. Front on ramps, back on jack stands. Removed both axles. I think I've read the starter comes out and detach all the linkage next.

    Anyway the one new axle looks like one clamp on the boot is not holding since the boot is pulling off. Also the new Allen cap bolts I used (black oxide) have rusted on the heads but look good otherwise. I wonder if plated bolts would be better. Not sure if stainless bolts are strong enough for axle bolts. I think in shear loads SS is fine.
    Clutch replacement is a hard one, but so worth it.

    Iím so tired of rebuilding my half shafts... done it three times now and no matter what Iíve tried I just canít get the axle boots to stay on. Iíve used metal bands, those super thick zip ties, all manner of tools to pull and tighten them... one time I even coated the inner flange with RTV before tightening the ties to try and seal it - and every time, they come loose or rip and fling grease everywhere. Hate it. Nastiest, grossest job on the car and the least successful.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, April 2012 to present
    restoration log, March 2011 to April 2012
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  6. #7416
    Senior Member hippieman9's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2018

    Location:  Haw River, NC

    Posts:    127

    My VIN:    06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Jacked the car up. Front on ramps, back on jack stands. Removed both axles. I think I've read the starter comes out and detach all the linkage next.

    Anyway the one new axle looks like one clamp on the boot is not holding since the boot is pulling off. Also the new Allen cap bolts I used (black oxide) have rusted on the heads but look good otherwise. I wonder if plated bolts would be better. Not sure if stainless bolts are strong enough for axle bolts. I think in shear loads SS is fine.
    Check with Totally Stainless, they carry grade 8 stainless bolts.

  7. #7417
    Builder of the first Delorean Time Machine
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  atlanta, ga, usa, earth, sol, milky way

    Posts:    1,042

    My VIN:    2072

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Today I took 2072 out for a spin!

    It was my first time driving the car in quite a long time. New DPI exhaust and heads plus a lot of Ron's time........ it's good to finally have her back on the road!

  8. #7418
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Mar 2018

    Location:  Broken Arrow, Ok

    Posts:    16

    My VIN:    3394

    Today, removed master cylinder. Will order new one monday.

    Drained trans, changed filter, put back together, found it not shifting. Drained again, removed pan, check linkage. Now need to test for why it won't shift. More work ahead.

  9. #7419
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    6,945

    My VIN:    03572

    clutch replace

    Pulled the starter. I know I don't have the plate that holds the diagnostic sensor. Don't see another plate. I pretty sure Rob G did a clutch replace before I bought my car. The transmission mount plates look new. So I guess I unbolt those mount plates from both the transmission and the car frame to get them out of way. I also guess I have to support the transmission when I do that. Do you point your transmission jack toward the rear of the car or to the side? Just thinking if I will need blocks or a jack at the rear of the engine.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #7420
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    1,601

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Pulled the starter. I know I don't have the plate that holds the diagnostic sensor. Don't see another plate. I pretty sure Rob G did a clutch replace before I bought my car. The transmission mount plates look new. So I guess I unbolt those mount plates from both the transmission and the car frame to get them out of way. I also guess I have to support the transmission when I do that. Do you point your transmission jack toward the rear of the car or to the side? Just thinking if I will need blocks or a jack at the rear of the engine.
    Hi Dave,
    Yes, once your transmission jack is in place and secured but not taking any weight off the gearbox, you’ll definitely want to support the engine from the rear, as it will tilt down a bit otherwise and make separation nearly impossible. I measured and cut a 4x4 length of wood from the floor to the rear edge of the oil pan( where the oil pan bolts are). Then, you can remove the 2 transmission mounts, linkage, etc.

    Also, I had good luck removing the clutch slave without breaking the line, and hanging it out of the way. If you don’t need to replace it, that saves time and frustration.

    I got some stainless steel Zip ties for the axle boots. They look great, were inexpensive, and hold securely.
    Last edited by DMC-81; Yesterday at 10:07 AM.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

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