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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #7281
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2013

    Location:  FL

    Posts:    947

    My VIN:    Early

    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    This is a job I have to do as well. Is it a big deal to pull the old throttle cable out and feed the new one through?
    If you're replacing the inner cable only, Riley88 has that covered.

    However, I changed out the hole assembly including the outer cable. All I did was pull the cable with the parcel shelf carpet removed. I then reached under the dash on the passenger side for the cable and pulled in from the console. After that, I simply pulled it out after disconnecting it at the pedals.

    To install, I removed the coin tray and fed the cable down the console from the front. I then fed a coat hangar from the engine side to catch the cable and pull it though the bulkhead. Once that it done, I fed the cable under the HVAC box towards the pedals.

    The hardest pard is curving the outer cable between the pedal box and wiper motor. It took me an hour to get everything installed there....

    After all that, I lubed the inner cable and fed it through from the pedal box side.
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

  2. #7282
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2014

    Location:  Anchorage, Alaska

    Posts:    847

    My VIN:    5625

    Quote Originally Posted by Riley88 View Post
    My throttle cable snapped on me driving once so I have done this as well. Its very straight forward pull the old cable out through where it goes up into the sleeve behind your pedal. You can then lube and run the new cable through the old sleeve quite easily. make sure the cable is pulled nicely through and you dont have any give on the pedals when tightening it down on the other end at the throttle. I actually ran some warm soapy water and forced it through with an compressor from the engine side of the cable and put an empty bucket at the other end under the dash to try to get some of the crud from inside of the cable out. After i did that i blew just air through then i blew a some co2 out to force any moisture out. Grabbed my new cable lightly greased it and ran it through. Took about 20 mins in total. Really easy and the new cable +cleaning made the pedal silky smooth
    Sweet, thanks! What did you use to lube the cable?
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  3. #7283
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Preparing to adjust the fenders, I pulled one of the fasteners to have a closer look. Seems the washers may be stainless (they're mildly magnetic) but the screw isn't.

    fender hardware.jpg

    Noted some Dunmurry, er, ''quality control'' - the middle hole on each fender lines up so badly that they couldn't put a fastener in it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

    LH fender missing fastener.jpg

    Hardware will be replaced with 316 stainless - except for the middle one, of course.

    Also drained 2 gallons of water from cooling system. It's getting cleaner with each daily cycle. Shouldn't be long before I can flush/backflush again and fill with 50/50. Moving forward feels good.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  4. #7284
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Pulled the RH door sill. Some of the screws were sticking up, and some were spinning in their places. Previous owner had installed stainless letters. Some of the letters have fallen off. I helped the rest.

    RH door sill removed.jpg

    Going to clean off the dried adhesive and see about re-installing. Really wishing there were some alternative to the screws.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  5. #7285
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Pulled the RH door sill. Some of the screws were sticking up, and some were spinning in their places. Previous owner had installed stainless letters. Some of the letters have fallen off. I helped the rest.

    RH door sill removed.jpg

    Going to clean off the dried adhesive and see about re-installing. Really wishing there were some alternative to the screws.
    Not exactly sure what the story is about the screws. They were never supposed to be there. You should be able to just replace the sills with new ones. They don’t have drill holes. You may need to replace the white plastic receptacles that the sill tabs push into. Dave S. Could could probably shed light on the topic.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #7286
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Not exactly sure what the story is about the screws. They were never supposed to be there. You should be able to just replace the sills with new ones. They don’t have drill holes. You may need to replace the white plastic receptacles that the sill tabs push into. Dave S. Could could probably shed light on the topic.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The screws were a QAC thing. Some of the sills didn’t sit right using just the friction clips, and the QACs screwed them in place after they arrived.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  7. #7287
    DeLorean Owner, Missouri jmrydholm's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Missouri

    Posts:    191

    My VIN:    10715

    I've thought about #10715 today...(I've also logged into the forum after a long absence.) I still have her, just working at night, family, kids, etc. kind of take most of my time. Also bills. Need to get her out of my dad's garage and suck all the gas out of the tank.

  8. #7288
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    You should be able to just replace the sills with new ones. They don’t have drill holes. You may need to replace the white plastic receptacles that the sill tabs push into.
    Quote Originally Posted by jawn101 View Post
    The screws were a QAC thing. Some of the sills didn’t sit right using just the friction clips, and the QACs screwed them in place after they arrived.
    Thanks, y'all! I will add new door sills to my shopping list.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  9. #7289
    October 1981 Col Bennett's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2016

    Location:  Bay Area, CA

    Posts:    202

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    I finally got around to getting my lovely wheels refinished by José and the team at Rite-Way in Walnut Creek, CA.

    Their work is absolutely outstanding so if you're in the Bay Area or Northern California, I couldn't recommend them more. Fantastic finish and workmanship.

    Be sure to ask for a full wheel restoration using LP1 - a near-identical match to the original silver.

    Refinished and loaded into the day car…



    And the end-result on the car…











    DeLorean DMC-12 (October 1981)
    Manual transmission. Grooved hood. Grey interior. Rear antenna.
    Obsessive perfectionist and 64th annual 2019 Hillsborough Concours D'Elegance class winner.

  10. #7290
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2013

    Location:  FL

    Posts:    947

    My VIN:    Early

    Well, I replaced my thermostat with a 160 degree from O'Reillys after I hit 215* yesterday. I also reprogrammed the Dakota Digital fan controller to start @185* and turn off @180*.

    Looks like the thermostat I had was the original. It was made in West Germany...
    A+ Gallery_6.jpg
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

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