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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #5421
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Jonathan; Anyone have a photo of a fascia removed from the car and showing the backside with those studs? My car doesn't have anything there and it looks again like another part of my car that was being held together with only the Force.

    My foam shock absorber part stayed attached to the frame and did not come off with the fascia. Assume this is meant to be? I don't have any reason to remove it, so figured I'd just leave it as is for [/QUOTE]

    Hi Jonathan,

    Here is a picture of those outbound studs. They look the same as the 7 in the middle. I took off my absorbers, carefully peeled the old paint off, cleaned, then applied 3 coats of engine enamel as Rob Grady suggested. He aslo recommended that everyone refurbish the coating when fascias are off due to their tendency to hold water like a sponge. That's why the bottom is more peeled ( gravity). There are 4 bolts that hold the rear absorber on( bolted to the aluminum support bar on the absorber.. see pic) . I'd try one of them to see if you can get them off, and then recommend this task. It was fairly easy to do.

    Thread:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12...pact-absorbers

    image.jpg

    Absorber cleaned off :
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    I hope this helps. Good luck with the tasks.
    Last edited by DMC-81; 12-09-2015 at 11:27 PM.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  2. #5422
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    4,808

    My VIN:    3937

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Hi Jonathan,

    Here is a picture of those outbound studs. They look the same as the 7 in the middle. I took off my absorbers, carefully peeled the old paint off, cleaned, then applied 3 coats of engine enamel as Rob Grady suggested. He aslo recommended that everyone refurbish the coating when fascias are off due to their tendency to hold water like a sponge. That's why the bottom is more peeled ( gravity). There are 4 bolts that hold the rear absorber on( bolted to the aluminum support bar on the absorber.. see pic) . I'd try one of them to see if you can get them off, and then recommend this task. It was fairly easy to do.

    Thread:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12...pact-absorbers

    image.jpg

    Absorber cleaned off :
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    I hope this helps. Good luck with the tasks.
    Hey, thanks. That helps a lot.

    Those studs do look the same and good to note the ones on the end have a different orientation than the middle seven. I'll see about tracking down a couple more of those SS studs. I don't see them listed on the webstore and don't seem to have a part number to search for them with either after looking back at my parts list from when I order them originally.

    And good call on the shock absorber paint and water logging. I bet that's exactly what happens. And considering how rusty my original heatshield was, I would believe it if the source of water dripping on to it making it so was from above with that shock absorber.

    Can't tell which is which, can ya?? lol

    IMG_3295.jpg


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  3. #5423
    Slickness of SS SIMid's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Melbourne, Australia

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    My VIN:    01955

    12357198_1111328868911654_2333864819347312186_o (1).jpg
    Caught up with the DWT in Melbourne over the weekend.

  4. #5424
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    276

    My VIN:    1776

    I took advantage of the warm El Nino weather and drove 1776 to a Christmas party on Saturday night. Usually it's well into its hibernation period by now.

    A few weeks ago I had a lucky break. A deer dashed out from the side of the interstate while I was going about 65. He must have seen me and put on the brakes, because he just went *thump* against the passenger's door and ran away. I stopped to check for damage, and there was just a big smear of deer-slobber on the door.

  5. #5425
    Senior Member SKnight's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2014

    Location:  Seattle, WA

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    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Just had a deluxe Wings-A-Loft system with trunk opener installed (no more relying on the latch cable), replaced the driver side inner door seal, and had the old door solenoids replaced with DPNW's actuator kit. Surprisingly, the left hand solenoid was missing which I guess would explain why the driver door never locked or unlocked if i turned the key in the passenger side.

  6. #5426
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

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    Realized how little slack there is in my spark plug wires. I tugged lightly on cylinder 6's wire and it popped right off. Figure I'll replace my ignition wiring now as I've had the parts for some time.

    Question though on those wires: I have all six plug wires and two different coil wires. The six plug wires along with one of the coil wires are black in colour and are marked:

    BOUGICORD 403 AUTORADIO BOUGICORD 403 CLASS C

    The single red coil wire I have though is marked:

    BOUGICORD 403 CLASS B 008

    Is there some significance to this class "C" and class "B"?

    The red coil wire is not quite as soft and malleable whereas all the black ones are. So I'd rather use the black coil wire since it doesn't feel as stale or crusty. All of them are new never used, but somehow the red one is quite a bit more stiff.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  7. #5427
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2014

    Location:  West Sayville, N.Y.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Realized how little slack there is in my spark plug wires. I tugged lightly on cylinder 6's wire and it popped right off. Figure I'll replace my ignition wiring now as I've had the parts for some time.

    Question though on those wires: I have all six plug wires and two different coil wires. The six plug wires along with one of the coil wires are black in colour and are marked:

    BOUGICORD 403 AUTORADIO BOUGICORD 403 CLASS C

    The single red coil wire I have though is marked:

    BOUGICORD 403 CLASS B 008

    Is there some significance to this class "C" and class "B"?

    The red coil wire is not quite as soft and malleable whereas all the black ones are. So I'd rather use the black coil wire since it doesn't feel as stale or crusty. All of them are new never used, but somehow the red one is quite a bit more stiff.
    That is an original 34 year old coil wire fitted to all '81's and was the source of many breakdowns. Red Bougicord wires were crap when new and they, unlike me, don't get better with age. I'd say you're about 30 years overdue for a tuneup my (very lucky to start your car!) friend.
    Rob

  8. #5428
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc. View Post
    That is an original 34 year old coil wire fitted to all '81's and was the source of many breakdowns. Red Bougicord wires were crap when new and they, unlike me, don't get better with age. I'd say you're about 30 years overdue for a tuneup my (very lucky to start your car!) friend.
    Rob
    Haha, thanks Rob! We'll let the RED wine get better with age, and go with the BLACK replacement coil wire. Appreciate the tip!

    Gonna pull the spark plugs shortly and I'll let you know how they look. I think I can feel my way to the distributor cap to replace the coil wire and then leave the ignition wires as is. Not too keen on moving the fuel mixture unit and it doesn't seem like there is enough access back there to get at everything while it is still in place.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  9. #5429
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2014

    Location:  West Sayville, N.Y.

    Posts:    1,350

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    Club(s):   (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Haha, thanks Rob! We'll let the RED wine get better with age, and go with the BLACK replacement coil wire. Appreciate the tip!

    Gonna pull the spark plugs shortly and I'll let you know how they look. I think I can feel my way to the distributor cap to replace the coil wire and then leave the ignition wires as is. Not too keen on moving the fuel mixture unit and it doesn't seem like there is enough access back there to get at everything while it is still in place.
    I forgot to mention your other wires are also original and although better in quality are also long overdue. You can loosen the A.S. housing and sneak out the cap and wires but I like to see what I'm doing so I usually remove the housing too. Just be sure to replace the copper seals on any banjo bolts you remove.
    Rob

  10. #5430
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc. View Post
    I forgot to mention your other wires are also original and although better in quality are also long overdue. You can loosen the A.S. housing and sneak out the cap and wires but I like to see what I'm doing so I usually remove the housing too. Just be sure to replace the copper seals on any banjo bolts you remove.
    Rob
    I would really like to change all the wires out. I don't have any spare fuel hose seals though, nor a big interest in mucking with them. I agree on wanting to see what I am doing too.

    Not trying to be a pain, but not wanting to make a mistake either... what did you mean by "loosen the A.S. housing?" I might be mixing up acronyms, sorry. And loosening by way of nuts and bolts just physically holding it to the engine I hope, and not much more? Got a part number I can reference for what to loosen? thx.

    EDIT: I replaced the spark plugs on the RH side so far, cylinders 1,2,3. The tips of them didn't look terrible, but the threads were pretty black/dark. The top end too for the electrical connection was not very clean and shiny either. I expect this will help a lot overall with how well the car performs come Spring.
    Last edited by Jonathan; 12-19-2015 at 05:41 PM.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

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