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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #8731
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    My point of contact was the wire connector housing.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  2. #8732
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    1,168

    My VIN:    10270

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    My point of contact was the wire connector housing.
    Same here, I filed a miter into the corner of the connector & ground down the fuel pump cover in that area a little. That was enough to get things to seat without further trouble. This worked with both the DMCH pump & the Delphi pump.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  3. #8733
    Senior Member - Owner since 2003 Patrick C's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern Michigan

    Posts:    1,147

    My VIN:    1880

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    My point of contact was the wire connector housing.
    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Same here, I filed a miter into the corner of the connector & ground down the fuel pump cover in that area a little. That was enough to get things to seat without further trouble. This worked with both the DMCH pump & the Delphi pump.
    Same problem here. In fact, the cover ended up pushing the connector off and killing my fuel pump during a DeLorean driving tour! I recommend a zip tie around the connector just to make sure it can’t get pushed off/unclipped by the cover on top of it.
    Patrick C.
    VIN 1880

  4. #8734
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,678

    My VIN:    11596

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick C View Post
    Same problem here. In fact, the cover ended up pushing the connector off and killing my fuel pump during a DeLorean driving tour! I recommend a zip tie around the connector just to make sure it can’t get pushed off/unclipped by the cover on top of it.
    I installed one of the first "retail" kits of the new pump system from DMCH in someone else's car. I seem to remember there being something in the instructions about zip tying one or more connectors together to prevent that.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  5. #8735
    absotively posilutely bytes311's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2014

    Location:  Modesto, CA

    Posts:    319

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Finally got around to installing the "A/C bump" feature that comes with Dave's McKeen's microprocessor idle ECU.

    For those wondering which wire you tap into, it's the pink one with the diode in the relay compartment.

    IMG_20210703_151528.jpg

  6. #8736
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    1,250

    Quote Originally Posted by bytes311 View Post
    Finally got around to installing the "A/C bump" feature that comes with Dave's McKeen's microprocessor idle ECU.

    For those wondering which wire you tap into, it's the pink one with the diode in the relay compartment.

    IMG_20210703_151528.jpg
    What is the A/C bump feature?

  7. #8737
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2016

    Location:  Austin MN

    Posts:    583

    My VIN:    03500

    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    What is the A/C bump feature?


    With David McKeens idle ECU there is a wire you can connect to the compressor wire to bump the idle up a 100 RPM for the car's that may not be able to handle the A/C on at idle. It's only active with the compressor running.


    Dave B.

  8. #8738
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    4,808

    My VIN:    3937

    I have a question about the cooling system flush I am currently doing. I hadn't replaced or flushed out the coolant for a long time and even back when it got done, it was my mechanic helping so I don't really know what got done or what didn't.

    Anyway, I got at it on the weekend. I disconnected the hoses attaching to the engine at the water pump at the ends that connect to the pipes. On the passenger side this is the one that tees up and into the reservoir and the one on the driver's side connects to the otterstat pipe. I also disconnected the hose and pipe at the bottom corner of the radiator on the passenger side. I gave it a good rinsing using the spray nozzle on the end of my garden hose. I'm confident all the old coolant is out along with any funk that might have been sitting in there.

    What I'm not sure about is the engine block. I hadn't really given much thought to unplugging the coolant drain plugs and so was reading up on misadventures and the like other guys have had. I tried to get the passenger side one off, but couldn't get a good grip nor clear access and thought better of trying to really lean into it and ruin something.

    That being said, I thought I would be able to use the garden hose spray nozzle in the end of either hose connected to the water pump and spray it through like that. It doesn't let me though. Like any kind of moderate water pressure I get using the spray nozzle and a rag to try and seal it just fills the hose and then comes back out the way it came in. It doesn't pour out the opposite hose like I thought it might.

    Is this normal or is it telling me I have some plugged yuck in there? I know I am trying to force it through the water pump, but having never removed mine or looked closely at how they are made, I'm not sure what the impeller blades or whatever it is look like. I'm guessing you can't force water past the pump like this because the passages are too small and won't let water freely by without it spinning? Anyone know? Thanks.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  9. #8739
    absotively posilutely bytes311's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2014

    Location:  Modesto, CA

    Posts:    319

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    I would suspect the thermostat is closed shut preventing the water from passing through the pump. They're designed to open when the water is hot enough.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I have a question about the cooling system flush I am currently doing. I hadn't replaced or flushed out the coolant for a long time and even back when it got done, it was my mechanic helping so I don't really know what got done or what didn't.

    Anyway, I got at it on the weekend. I disconnected the hoses attaching to the engine at the water pump at the ends that connect to the pipes. On the passenger side this is the one that tees up and into the reservoir and the one on the driver's side connects to the otterstat pipe. I also disconnected the hose and pipe at the bottom corner of the radiator on the passenger side. I gave it a good rinsing using the spray nozzle on the end of my garden hose. I'm confident all the old coolant is out along with any funk that might have been sitting in there.

    What I'm not sure about is the engine block. I hadn't really given much thought to unplugging the coolant drain plugs and so was reading up on misadventures and the like other guys have had. I tried to get the passenger side one off, but couldn't get a good grip nor clear access and thought better of trying to really lean into it and ruin something.

    That being said, I thought I would be able to use the garden hose spray nozzle in the end of either hose connected to the water pump and spray it through like that. It doesn't let me though. Like any kind of moderate water pressure I get using the spray nozzle and a rag to try and seal it just fills the hose and then comes back out the way it came in. It doesn't pour out the opposite hose like I thought it might.

    Is this normal or is it telling me I have some plugged yuck in there? I know I am trying to force it through the water pump, but having never removed mine or looked closely at how they are made, I'm not sure what the impeller blades or whatever it is look like. I'm guessing you can't force water past the pump like this because the passages are too small and won't let water freely by without it spinning? Anyone know? Thanks.

  10. #8740
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    4,808

    My VIN:    3937

    Quote Originally Posted by bytes311 View Post
    I would suspect the thermostat is closed shut preventing the water from passing through the pump. They're designed to open when the water is hot enough.
    Hard to simulate that one with the garden hose...


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

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