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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #4071
    Senior Member Denverdelorean's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  denver, CO

    Posts:    131

    My VIN:    3519

    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    been there, had to do both my doors. not fun.
    I was able to get this thing fairly lined up on the first try. Much like the torsion bar adjustment procedure, changing out doors isn't as hard as it is made out to be.

    I found the trick for removing the door to be to undo the gas strut and over extend the door in it's open position as much as possible to unload the torsion bar. This makes things with the torsion bar bracket procedure much less scary.

    After I had the door removed. It was just a matter of moving all the guts from one to the other. that was not fun at all, and took most of my time. Fishing the wiring harness was tricky too. I had to thread a pice of stiff twine through the door from top to bottom to fish the harness back through it's channel. This requires removal of the large connectors from the harness. I did take reference pics of that so I could get it re-assembled after running the cables. I actually need to remove the door once more to finish the wiring job. I forgot to pop rivet the rubber sleeve back onto the door before putting it back on the car. I'll make sure to take pictures the second time.

    The locks are finnicky now. I think because i had to break the retaining clip for my old style locks. I tried to be careful, but it just wasn't happening. now the lock sits loose and doesn't quite work right. I need to order new locks now.

    i'll need to re align the door to get it to close nicely, and then line the panels up to that. It' really not bad, just heavy and time consuming.

  2. #4072
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2013

    Location:  New York, NY

    Posts:    280

    Quote Originally Posted by ifelder View Post
    Did you apply air pressure from the evaporator side? My evaporator drain connection is still intact and I am trying to avoid breaking it. I figure it's not the best idea to apply air pressure 'up-stream' since whatever solids might be blocking the drain would eventually make it back down into the tube, unless I disconnect the evaporator side.
    how do i disconnect the evaporator side?

  3. #4073
    Car Fanatic. Technical Novice. pezzonovante88's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2011

    Location:  Near Toronto, ON

    Posts:    1,211

    My VIN:    Previous Owner of 5875

    Club(s):   (DOI)

    Decided to sell it. I'm looking at moving and am in the process of getting down to one car (daily driver/hobby car). The DeLorean was great and I'm sure that in some ways I'll regret selling it. Boohoo - first-world problem.
    Previous Owner of 5875 - 1981/Grey/5-Speed/Grooved Hood

  4. #4074
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by pezzonovante88 View Post
    Decided to sell it. I'm looking at moving and am in the process of getting down to one car (daily driver/hobby car). The DeLorean was great and I'm sure that in some ways I'll regret selling it. Boohoo - first-world problem.
    Bummer! Really sad to hear it. I still remember all your posts as you searched for and finally got the car. I'm sure you know what's best for you and know you'll find a good home for it.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  5. #4075
    Member
    Join Date:  Jan 2012

    Location:  Boston, MA

    Posts:    43

    My VIN:    4307

    Quote Originally Posted by papanoel View Post
    how do i disconnect the evaporator side?
    I'm pretty sure you have to cut the tube. I don't want to do that because the tube is only about 1" long between the frame and the evaporator. Then I'd have t come up with some way to patch it, which would probably lead to more leaks!

  6. #4076
    Senior Member robvanderveer's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Netherlands

    Posts:    612

    My VIN:    3695

    Club(s):   (DCN)

    What have you done to your DeLorean today?

    Today I reinstalled the inertia switch and wiring harness that had been removed about 25 years ago by a PO. I agree that this job was a little overdue, but you know what they say:

    "I said i'd do it, you don't have to remind me every 5 years"
    Rob van der Veer

    My mods? DeClock, keyless entry, Alpine audio setup, and much more.

  7. #4077
    Banned
    Join Date:  Sep 2011

    Location:  Sunfield, Michigan, USA

    Posts:    2,444

    My VIN:    1798

    Quote Originally Posted by ifelder View Post
    I'm pretty sure you have to cut the tube. I don't want to do that because the tube is only about 1" long between the frame and the evaporator. Then I'd have t come up with some way to patch it, which would probably lead to more leaks!
    You may find this useful

    http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.p...ator-Box-Drain

  8. #4078
    Senior Member JohnZ's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2013

    Location:  Belluno, Italy

    Posts:    628

    My VIN:    3305

    Re-installed the rear license plate lights... man what a PITA! How can someone design something like that?!?

    There is the light housing, then the rear fascia and then the thread is located in some sort of bracket that is free to move along the inner fascia, so to screw everything back on you have to be sure that the bracket is perfectly aligned with the two holes, and if it's not the screw will turn in vain, and the bracket just won't stay because it's a kind of a dancing bracket and it goes everywhere but where it has to stay, and you swear until you find the right alignment but just a little movement - inserting the screw for example - mess it up again and more profanities are born...

    In the end you must screw in one of them with out the lights housing, screw up the other one with the lights and then go for the other one which is more firm. MAN what a painful 45 minutes!

  9. #4079
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Taylors SC

    Posts:    5,326

    My VIN:    (former)05429

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by ifelder View Post
    I'm pretty sure you have to cut the tube. I don't want to do that because the tube is only about 1" long between the frame and the evaporator. Then I'd have t come up with some way to patch it, which would probably lead to more leaks!
    Heat it up with a hair dryer and you can collapse it and bend it out of the way. Carefully as you don't want to break the outlet off the case.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  10. #4080
    Senior Member MML's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2011

    Location:  County Donegal, Ireland

    Posts:    693

    My VIN:    5436

    Club(s):   (DOA) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnZ View Post
    Re-installed the rear license plate lights... man what a PITA! How can someone design something like that?!?

    There is the light housing, then the rear fascia and then the thread is located in some sort of bracket that is free to move along the inner fascia, so to screw everything back on you have to be sure that the bracket is perfectly aligned with the two holes, and if it's not the screw will turn in vain, and the bracket just won't stay because it's a kind of a dancing bracket and it goes everywhere but where it has to stay, and you swear until you find the right alignment but just a little movement - inserting the screw for example - mess it up again and more profanities are born...

    In the end you must screw in one of them with out the lights housing, screw up the other one with the lights and then go for the other one which is more firm. MAN what a painful 45 minutes!
    It's easier with the tail light assemblies removed, then you can get your whole hand in there to hold the metal plate in place!
    - Martin - VIN 5436 -

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