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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #8841
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2016

    Location:  Austin MN

    Posts:    350

    My VIN:    03500

    Took the old girl out for the last drive of the season. So sad to put her away.😭 I wasn't the only one out with there classic, so great minds think alike. Only a few miles away from turning 18K. I just had to get other things ready for winter.🤬




    Dave B.

  2. #8842
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    961

    My VIN:    11596

    Another update from 11596. Rear suspension rebuild is going pretty well. It's so much easier putting together new, clean parts!

    I sent out all of my brake parts, brackets, bolts, washers, every suspension bolt, and some other stuff like horn brackets, rear hubs, spacers, etc. to DMCMW to get cleaned and plated for a very reasonable charge. I received the parts back on Friday and started to reassemble right away. I put the calipers together loosely, and after masking the bores and putting some rolled up shop towel into each of the fluid ports, I sprayed them with three coats of Duplicolor Clear Engine Ceramic. I figure this will add an extra layer of protection so the plating doesn't wear off so fast and will make it easier to clean the calipers later.

    I had big problems with the parking brakes because I had disassembled them for cleaning, not realizing that if you remove the slotted adjustment screw, you will totally screw up in the inside of the mechanism because the adjuster nut inside will pivot away from the guide hole. It took me a long time to get the mechanism apart because I couldn't get the clevis pin out (thank you air chisel) and the shallow slotted screw that holes the covers together was just spinning with the rivnut on the other side. I had to destroy the rivnut with my dremel and then decided to replace those parts with a countersunk phillips 10-24 screw, a nut with a tacked-on star washer, and then cut the end off with my grinder. I was able to adjust the cable enough to keep the mechanism from hitting the new nut and all looks good now.

    Just waiting for my (hopefully last) parts order so I can build up the front calipers, install new o-rings and lip seals on the transmission output shafts, then bleed the brakes and torque the suspension pivots. Finish line is finally visible!

    PXL_20211105_214037135.jpg
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    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Olathe, KS

  3. #8843
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,341

    My VIN:    6125

    All those fresh zinc plated parts look like golden treasure.

    Keep up the good work!
    VIN 6125: Now with 300% more banana in the tailpipe for headache-free cruising comfort.

  4. #8844
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    961

    My VIN:    11596

    Another update from 11596.

    Yesterday I "officially" (?) wrapped up my suspension and brake restoration project by getting a 4-wheel alignment. Trust me, my wife is glad to hear it. I just have a bit of fine-tuning to do on the QA-1 coil over rebound settings, trying to find a good balance front and rear. I've had soft shocks for years so stiffening things up (also with new bushings, a mix of poly and OEM) of course brings out the rattles that I'll be tracking down and trying to silence. Very happy with how the project has turned out though and I have so much more confidence driving the car now - no longer worrying if going over railroad tracks will finally collapse my LCA or breaking the T/A bolt I wasn't able to get out 20 years ago. LOL.

    My brake pedal is a bit softer than I would like so perhaps I have a bit more work to do with bleeding the brakes. Pretty sure I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder very well / properly but with both 2-man bleeding and using a Motive power bleeder I'm not getting any air out of the lines so..... hmm. I bedded in the brakes (10 brake applications from 35 mph to 10 mph in a row, then 4 applications from 45 to 5 until I could smell hot brakes) and that went well. Parking brake is working great. Just tiny stuff now.

    Sad to say I needed a tow truck last weekend because the pivot bolt for my shift linkage worked itself out of the frame. I have a Hervey bolt that is exactly 21 years old and now looking at it I suspect it is not long enough for the application. New bolt and all hardware including new bushings for the shift rods will be here today!

    What's next? Not too much. My rheostat is junk and sometimes cuts out the cluster lights at night until I play with it again. Trying to decide if I should replace the rheostat or upgrade to LED binnacle lights which don't use the rheostat anyway. Thoughts? I like the warm color of the stock lamps and would want a similar look with LED if that's possible.
    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Olathe, KS

  5. #8845
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    961

    My VIN:    11596

    Forgot to mention - last weekend I polished my glass (doors and rear quarters) using my Griot's Garage G9 buffer and 3" backing plate with Griot's rayon glass polishing pads. I used blue painter tape to tape off all the trim and then polished the glass using Meguires Water Spot Remover cream. My glass has had bad water spots since before I got the car and nothing previously would remove. Not vinegar, not glass cleaner, not newspaper, not even 0000 steel wool with windex. I finally decided to try again and used some of this cream on a terry wax applicator pad and after aggressive scrubbing, I was shocked to see it was actually removing the water spots. But it was a lot of work for a small area. The DA and rayon pads worked really well - the method I found that worked best was to apply a thin later of the cream over the glass first using an extra pad, then set the DA on the glass and start it up at a moderately high speed - I think I used 6. Usually for paint correction "less is more" but in this case, you really need to keep the glass wet with the cream to get the best result. I spent about 90 minutes and got great results, with only some corners needing to be touched up by hand where the DA can't reach.

    257690342_885542472156562_3634791332541875706_n.jpg
    255614494_1380921909001462_8086238684055979599_n.jpg
    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Olathe, KS

  6. #8846
    Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2012

    Location:  Niceville, FL

    Posts:    82

    My VIN:    03430

    Over 8400 posts, and 1 million views, has to be the longest and most viewed thread i’ve ever seen anywhere!

    Anyway, This is my first post in this thread.

    I decided to try and reenforce my rear fascia against the inward sagging that they commonly have. I haven’t seen too much in the way of fixes for this so i thought it might be helpful to others looking for an idea.

    I took a piece if aluminum right angle stock, about 1”x1”x3’. I drilled 1/4” holes in it down each side so the adhesive would have something more to grab onto. I placed the aluminum in one of the more right angled areas on the inside of the fascia and glued it down with some leftover pliogrip i had from my roof replacement. I clamped it down as shown in the photos, using a piece of round stock in between the board and the convex part of the fascia so the clamping wouldn’t deform the fascia. Having the deep jaw clamps is definitely is a must for this.


    Before, note the sag.


    After: much improved









    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #8847
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    2,189

    My VIN:    4877

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Very nice work. I had to try and straighten my rear fascia too...never got it quite straight though.
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Website
    YouTube
    My Patreon

  8. #8848
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    836

    Quote Originally Posted by Lwanmtr View Post
    Very nice work. I had to try and straighten my rear fascia too...never got it quite straight though.
    Yes, very nice! Mine is not sagged where yours is. Mine is warped right where the engine cover closes. It makes it hard to open and close the cover. I think I need to do something similar.

  9. #8849
    Senior Member skill's Avatar
    Join Date:  Dec 2013

    Location:  San Diego, CA

    Posts:    341

    My VIN:    03037

    Cool New Fuel Pump & WinterizeD

    I finally got around to it. I cleaned out the fish tank and removed the old habitat!

    J/k! If you have the e-fuel pump with black rubber feet... remove it from your fuel tank! That fuel pump... is no good. The fuel pump with rubber feet on the bottom disintegrate or sludge away and mix with your fuel. I highly recommend selecting a fuel pump with out the black nobby feet!

    I hope everyone is well and miss you all! Stay safe and live the dream as always!
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    1998 Online Gamer; Everquest, AOE, R6, WOW, SOF
    1981 DeLorean, Grey, Automatic, Flap, 12k preserved miles
    1960 Volkswagen Beetle
    1961 Cadillac Coupe DeVille - *Restoration in Progress*

  10. #8850
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2020

    Posts:    8

    Machined wheels finally

    I had a set of after market wheels for a long time on 17167 and i had sold the original wheels off in the early 2000s for a song to a friend. One of my after market rims became damaged and irreplaceable so i decided to gef a set of original which has taken a while. I ended up finding 2 fronts at a junk yard and buying 2 oem rears from houston in the early grey style. I had them powder coated and then machined locally.20211221_182821.jpg

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