What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Ron]

Without getting to deep into ethanol or not ... ethanol will keep things clean.

Agreed, IFF used in properly maintained systems designed for it.
But you know how that goes...

[82DMC12]

Two weeks ago I was diagnosing a hot start condition and found both my accumulator leaking and a slow seep of fuel coming up from the electrical connector studs on the OEM-style fuel pump. The accumulator was replaced about 15 years ago so I guess that's how it goes. New accumulator on the way. I looked at options to fix my fuel pump leak and of course by now, years since my last foray into the gas tank, the rubber cover that goes over the whole assembly was shrunken up once again and wouldn't go over the pump even if I replaced the pump with a new OEM pump. Everyone is saying to just switch to the new style so that's what I did.

Yesterday I received a new DPI pump and it wasn't too tough to install. The hardest part was installing the weather pack connectors. Fortunately I already had the proper crimp tool from when I replaced my fuse box. The original wires to the pump were so discolored from grit and heat that I had to use a multimeter to confirm which one was the ground LOL. There's very little room to work so I ended up pulling the wires back and working through the brake access cover hole. It was tough to hold the pump down while tightening the V-clamp so I smeared a small amount of light oil on the black gasket so it would slip into the tank easier and I held the pump down with a small piece of 2x4 while cranking down. Finally got it. I had no trouble at all getting the hard lines disconnected from the barbs, but I replaced those barbs with new parts maybe a decade ago.

Only problem now is 1) I can't get the cover to go over the pump area because the new pump sticks up about 1/4" and hits the cover. Guess I'll be loosening my fuel tank cover plate to try to pry the tank down a bit further. Anyone have any advice for this? and 2) can't test the pump because battery is disconnected due to valve covers being off for tune up and I still don't have my accumulator yet (thanks UPS).

I haven't mounted the logic box because I don't have a rivnut tool for metric size yet. Until I get one, I think I'm just going to mount it using a command strip....

IMG_20210714_215313_01.jpg

[DMC5180]

I’m not sure if the pump top on DPI pump is the same as what DMCH uses. With the DMCH pump, there was a sweet spot in the clocking where the interference was minimized. There was still contact, however the instructions said, to install the upper 2 center screws first then work your way outward and down alternating sides with each screw. When you get to the bottom 2 they should be close enough to get the screws started or use a hole finder pick to line the holes up. It worked for my installation without issue.

[Chris 16409]

I added some extra foam strips to the bottom of the closing plate. That lifted it up high enough to clear.

[82DMC12]

I’m not sure if the pump top on DPI pump is the same as what DMCH uses. With the DMCH pump, there was a sweet spot in the clocking where the interference was minimized. There was still contact, however the instructions said, to install the upper 2 center screws first then work your way outward and down alternating sides with each screw. When you get to the bottom 2 they should be close enough to get the screws started or use a hole finder pick to line the holes up. It worked for my installation without issue.

Thanks for the tip. I was texting another owner who recently did the pump as I was working last night and he suggested the same thing. I think the pump bodies are the same. I am a bit worried about the float hitting the inside of the tank, or maybe the static rod. I will probably scope it out using my camera on a wire through the old sender hole. I did remove the V-clamp after the initial cinch to confirm that the pump was indeed 100% inside the tank hole and it was. So maybe if I can rotate it a bit I'll be set. the cover is hitting the front fuel line that attaches to the pump.

[82DMC12]

I added some extra foam strips to the bottom of the closing plate. That lifted it up high enough to clear.

That's a great idea. I could probably RTV some thick washers on the bottom of the cover where the screw holes are and fill in the gap with foam.

[Ron]

About 10% of the covers will hit no mater how you position the pump due to the tank mounting/ height. I've seen a couple ~1/2" too high. To keep vibration from rubbing a hole in them, I placed a small piece of wood on top of the pump and slooowly heated the cover with a heat gun until it relaxed enough to clear once the wood was removed.

[82DMC12]

About 10% of the covers will hit no mater how you position the pump due to the tank mounting/ height. I've seen a couple ~1/2" too high. To keep vibration from rubbing a hole in them, I placed a small piece of wood on top of the pump and slooowly heated the cover with a heat gun until it relaxed enough to clear once the wood was removed.

That's slick. The plastic is super hard though. Might have to get a heat gun.

[DMC5180]

About 10% of the covers will hit no mater how you position the pump due to the tank mounting/ height. I've seen a couple ~1/2" too high. To keep vibration from rubbing a hole in them, I placed a small piece of wood on top of the pump and slooowly heated the cover with a heat gun until it relaxed enough to clear once the wood was removed.

I considered this. But as it stands I don’t notice any additional vibration due to the current contact point.

Here’s my clocking. Word of caution. Make the plastic cap for the Sender hole is deep enough to engage multiple turns of threads. The white one in my photo would not engage more have a turn with o-ring that was provided. It popped of the first time I filled the tang. What a mess. I ended up just reinstalling the old sender to plug the hole. It doesn’t interfere with the swing arm of the new sensor.

[82DMC12]

I considered this. But as it stands I don’t notice any additional vibration due to the current contact point.

Here’s my clocking. Word of caution. Make the plastic cap for the Sender hole is deep enough to engage multiple turns of threads. The white one in my photo would not engage more have a turn with o-ring that was provided. It popped of the first time I filled the tang. What a mess. I ended up just reinstalling the old sender to plug the hole. It doesn’t interfere with the swing arm of the new sensor.

Dennis, looking at your pump alignment it appears if everything else is similar I can probably rotate mine counterclockwise a few degrees and get some more room to work with.