Location: Atlanta OTP GA
Posts: 7,084
My VIN: 2743
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCH) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)
1002
Awesome thread!
Dermot
VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320
I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans
http://www.will-to-live.org
No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
So far I have removed the passenger door fixed glass. Also had to remove the strut as the door became too difficult to close with how bare it is right now. There is barely anything in it.
Now I'm cleaning up the stainless on the door for the glass and the glass itself.
Jim Reeve
DMC6960
D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise
Installed Henninger's door strut support brackets. So far so good, I'm letting everything cure a bit before I close the doors, but they were every bit as simple to install as others have already said. They're well made, and Mr. H is just a phone call away and very patient in answering questions. Installation was very strait forward and I do NOT think they "detract" from the appearance in any way, in fact I kinda think it looks cooler now. With all the after market door struts flying arround these days I think these or a comparable upgrade would be a wise thing. 1258 came with the original Stabilus struts and I replaced them with the ones PJ Grady had back in '07. They lasted a very long time and I noticed no displacement of the stock strut stud, however I've recently replaced the old Grady ones with Ed's "Soft-Lift" struts, I can't 100% say that's what caused my original studs to bend, but it was shortly after that, that I noticed they were pushed out a bit. So I made the call to go with Henninger's solution, for it's simplicity and ease of installation, I also believe they can stand a bit more stress. If any thing happens, I'll let you guys know.
-James
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Installed DPNW's lower speedo cable. The speedo bounce is almost completely gone!
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
I added pictures to my Album #6313 showing the installation of the Velcro rolls and velcro patches on the underside of the escutcheon. This allows the escutcheon to be installed and removed as normal (albeit with a little more resistance from the velcro). When installed the Escutcheon doesn't move or rattle. Stable enough that using the door lock button or door latch doesn't cause the escutcheon to move.
I also adjusted my strike pins on the passenger door. I found the method of moving them into random positions somewhat useful, because I can't see any logic behind when they grab and when they don't - too many variables. I'm think there might be a lot of frame flex around the door frame. I never got to the beautiful click that some others have described, but I'm happy with no longer having to slam it to get both latches to catch.
Holes Drilling in Door Lock Latch Bracket for Velcro Mount.jpgEscutcheon on Bracket showing Gap.jpgVelcro Rolls Mounted under Escutcheon.jpgEscutcheon with Velcro patches.jpgDoor latch and lock with Velocro rolls.jpgJeff #6313
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)