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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #1011
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Minnesota

    Posts:    1,585

    My VIN:    06960

    Holy Hell I never want to do that again. If I ever encounter another window so messed with by a previous owner im just going to buy a new door, glass, and channel.

    So at some point before my ownership something happened to the passenger side door glass. Either it was removed and replaced or it got broken and replaced. Two of the 6 retaining tabs for the fixed glass were broken off already. But the bad part is how the window was secured. It was sealed with a mix of windshield urethane (correct) but also a thick bead of gooey sealant. That combination gave me hell trying to clean it all up.

    After a few hours I finally got the door cleaned up, then did the fixed glass. That was easy by comparison. Much better angles.

    Finally I cleaned up the aluminum channel that separates the fixed glass from the drop glass. This is what prompted all of my work on these parts. It popped loose when I was removing the scratched drop glass. Then I saw it didn't have the rubber seal around it like my drivers door does. I really like the finished appearance of it, so I decided to remove everything and clean it up and put it back together right. I'll tell you though, the cost of a new channel is worth it compared to cleaning urethane out of it.

    Well at least that's all done and tomorrow I can get the fixed window all assembled.
    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

  2. #1012
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Minnesota

    Posts:    1,585

    My VIN:    06960

    It's all about knowin the right way to do it.

    I screwed around with the drop glass channel seal for about two hours trying to get it on the fixed glass and aluminum channel. You'd think the old way it could go in would be to insert the deal into the channel first and then guide it into the glass. WRONG! Apparently if you do it on the glass first then guide the channel over the rubber, you can do it in 10 minutes flat!

    So far today, I have accomplished this...

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336078621.442941.jpg

    From this...

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336078673.012919.jpg
    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

  3. #1013
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Repainted Windshield side trim finishers to match the Upper piece I did last week.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  4. #1014
    Car Fanatic. Technical Novice. pezzonovante88's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2011

    Location:  Near Toronto, ON

    Posts:    1,211

    My VIN:    Previous Owner of 5875

    Club(s):   (DOI)

    Put on my new DMCH Intro-Tech car cover. Fits perfectly, looks cool, and will hopefully work well.
    Previous Owner of 5875 - 1981/Grey/5-Speed/Grooved Hood

  5. #1015
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Minnesota

    Posts:    1,585

    My VIN:    06960

    Installed passenger door fixed glass into car.

    Installed passenger door fixed glass weather seal into car.

    Placed dynamat extreme inside key areas of passenger door exterior skin. Door panel resonance significantly reduced.

    Installed new felt into passenger window channel.

    Installed passenger exterior drop glass seal.

    Installed 3 rub pads over passenger exterior drop glass seal retaining tabs.

    Installed new passenger drop glass into carrier.

    Installed drop glass into passenger door.

    Aligned passenger drop glass/carrier placement.

    Aligned passenger drop glass guides.

    Installed new A1 window regulator into passenger door.

    Called it a night.
    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

  6. #1016
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Dynamat in the door. How much extra weight do you think it will add?
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  7. #1017
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Rebuilt the carburetor.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  8. #1018
    Nothing witty here lest it offend
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    990

    Absolutely nothing.

    Haven't driven it in 3 months.

    Took it out of the garage.

    Hosed it off.

    Drove it all day, problem free.

    Life is Good.

  9. #1019
    Senior Member DrJeff's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2012

    Location:  Houston TX

    Posts:    601

    My VIN:    6313

    Door project is DONE!!! AND reassembled a Door Mirror Control Switch

    Two days to complete the door project on the driver's door. A LOT quicker than my first go around on the passenger door.

    - New window regulator
    - Wedgectomies on both latches
    - Spring on latch mechanism
    - Replaced solenoids (even though working still) with a linear actuator
    - escutcheon solution (velcro to stop a loose escutcheon)
    - lower and upper trim panel join hider (fluffy velcro strip along the brackets between the upper and lower trim panels to hide any reflection from the bracket metal)
    - rebuilt the door mirror control switch (twice, second time with superglue! It will never come apart again.)
    - New foam on the vent in door and duct tape (used as God originally intended) to seal the ducts
    - New weather seal foam strip around the bottom of the lower trim panel
    - New fir trees (trim clips) on the lower and upper trim panels

    It sure looks nice to have the door panels back on again

    Just in case anyone is tempted to take apart their door mirror control switch, don't. It took every ounce of dexterity I posses to get all those tiny springs and ball bearings back in place. However, it you really must, some advice...

    - Get a bowl to hold all the components, they all want to roll or bounce away from wherever you are working
    - Work over a baking tray so that if any parts do roll, at least you have a chance of catching them
    - Attached is a photo of the internal parts
    - 4 ball bearings, 4 small springs, 3 larger springs, 3 rollers
    - I re-assembled by holding the joy stick piece in place, and tipping up one corner at a time, putting a small spring in, then pushing in a ball bearing. There is a small metal gate that the spring presses the ball bearing against. Repeat three more times without letting any of the other springs or ball bearings come out of position (which means repeat the whole process about 10 times).
    - Once the joy stick piece has all its spring an bearings, put the top square of metal (an upper contact) back in place. I put a dot of superglue at each corner to hold the whole thing steady. Don't forget to reconnect the black wire. It connects to the top square contact.
    - Assemble the left right switch upside down in the housing. Put the larger springs in the holes (pretty obvious) and then lay the rollers across the top of the spring. The middle roller should be closer to the joystick bits than the other two rollers.
    - Close the unit by lowering the back side onto the topside (with the left/right switch assembled within).
    - Keep the unit held closed tightly and use superglue to seal the back side to the topside. (If not secured right, you will find that the left/right switch spring will force it apart and then you will have to start again.

    This is an expensive part to replace, so be sure not to misplace any of the parts. I certainly never want to do it again

    Door Mirrow Control Switch Left Right Switch with Rollers.jpgDoor Mirrow Control Switch Internal Parts.jpgDoor Mirrow Control Switch Joystick position.jpg

  10. #1020
    Senior Member Jeffu's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Boise, ID

    Posts:    189

    My VIN:    VIN 5120

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Pulled the power plant on #5120 tonight

    I pulled the engine and tranny on VIN 5120 tonight. Project will include: have the heads re-worked, hotter cams installed, scrap the old BAE turbo unit and replace it with a performance exhaust, replace rear main seal and other leaky gaskets on motor, tear into tranny and replace roller pin on 1st & 2nd gear along with seals. Paint rear pontoon area and engine bay. I got my work cut out for me!

    2012-05-05 22.24.09.jpg2012-05-05 22.31.09.jpg

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