Fitted the dome light dimmer module for LED lights /parade mode unit from bitsyncmaster. My windows were fogging up this morning so I went ahead and did the Mode control switch that I had been putting off. Since I was behind the center console I aslo did the LED replacement bulbs and also the headlight switch bypass/relay from the Wings-Aloft crowd. A few more items knocked off the todo list.
Jeff
#6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...
I forgot, I also fitted a small toggle switch inline with the driver's door switch. This way if I run the car with the door open (think parade mode) then I can just reach down and flip a switch to disable that horrible buzzing sound.
Jeff
#6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...
Installed my new adjustable alternator belt tensioner.
Chris Miles
For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Removed all traces of weatherstripping and adhesive from the T panel and driver's side quarter panel. California doesn't have naptha for sale (of course, it's useful so why sell it?) so it was just me, a bottle of goo gone and 100 of the crappiest razor blades Harbor Freight has to offer. Took about 4 hours but everything is nice and shiny and ready for the new seals coming this week, hopefully!
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 476
My VIN: 4099
Club(s): (PNDC)
Boss caught me in the CNC lab pressing in new pulley bearings for my AC. It was worth it.
Tried to put on some rubber hosing on the torsion bars to stop rubbing when the doors are opened and closed. Passenger went on fine, but the driver's side is impossible.
Can I use the butt of a screw driver to flex with leverage, so that there's enough room to slip it on? I'm scared of putting too much force and breaking it. Also, not sure if it would make a difference, it's winter here, so should I do this now or in summer?
Location: Atlanta OTP GA
Posts: 7,084
My VIN: 2743
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCH) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)
You should just need it in the areas where the hinges are. Mine was tight but I was able to get some thin wall rubber tubing (split length wise) around it and held on with tie-wraps.
I think you will dent the stainless before budging the torsion bar with a screwdriver butt.
Dermot
VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320
I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans
http://www.will-to-live.org
No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"