Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Looks like the original - except white.
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Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: sacramento
Posts: 1,415
My VIN: 1768
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Rewelded the broken off angle cable support bracket.
Rolled over 40,000!
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1351890412.179849.jpg
Yeah, it's dirty. I drive it.
Finally got around to pulling my leaky clutch slave cylinder today... my initial impression was that it wasn't nearly as bad as everyone has been saying. I had to two bolts out in a matter of minutes working from below.
Actually getting the slave cylinder out was another story though....After wrestling with it for a half hour I finally realized that the main reason it was so hard to get it out was the small coolant hose running from the driver's side head to the heater control valve. The hose sits right on top of the slave cylinder preventing you from pulling it up and out. My coolant system is all drained out anyway, so I just disconnected that hose, pushed it out of the way, and the slave cylinder came out with no trouble at all.
I disconnected the clutch fluid hard line at the bulkhead fitting on the chassis where it connects to the flexible braided hose and left the hard line connected to the slave cylinder. Once I had it on my bench I was able to get the hard line removed without twisting the tubing.
In total it only took me about an hour and most of the time was spent laying on my back staring upward wondering how the F&@k I was going to get the cylinder out with that coolant hose attached. So I just removed the coolant hose and the job became incredibly easy.
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Careful how you lay things putting the heater hoses and control valve back. Too many of us can tell you that the little hot water valve can snap right in half if stressed unusually, and I think a lot of that has to do with how roughly it is handled and how it lays behind the motor. Congrats getting the slave out so easily, though!
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
That's a really good point to make. The valve does seem to be pretty fragile and the metal pivot arm can also can bend easily.
I've got a full coolant hose replacement kit including a new water valve so I wasn't too concerned at the time if I damaged the original one. For someone doing this under more normal circumstances I would second jawn101's advice about being really careful with the valve.
Also, since my coolant system is drained there wasn't much liquid that came out when I disconnected the hose. If someone is attempting to remove the hose as a last ditch effort to get the slave cylinder out, first be absolutely sure the car is cool, and second, be ready with a cap for the brass coolant tube on the head. I'd also use a pair of hose clamp pliers to pinch off the hose before removing it. Sticking a bolt in the hose afterwards is a good way to temporarily plug it until it's time to clamp it off again and reconnect it.
I had to go visit my car in storage, Its been about two weeks since I last talked to her so I had a seat in her and asked how she was doing... She said "Build me a new two car garage home." I told her I cant, I spent all my money on buying you. lol
Mike Lowrey VIN# 3830