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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #1881
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Started cleaning the motor to try and figure out where it's seeping oil from. Tightened down the oil light sender. Does anyone know if there should be a bolt in this hole in the timing cover? It had some oil in it but I don't have any spare bolts that are the right size. I tried one from elsewhere on the timing cover but it didn't feel right - like it wasn't threading and I didn't want to force it. The hole is just below and to the right of the idler pulley bracket, you can see the clip that holds the oil light sender wire.

    Attached Images
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  2. #1882
    Car Fanatic. Technical Novice. pezzonovante88's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2011

    Location:  Near Toronto, ON

    Posts:    1,211

    My VIN:    Previous Owner of 5875

    Club(s):   (DOI)

    I got a new WUR/Control Pressure Regulator so today I went to install it. Everything went fine - I removed the old one and put in the new one. The last thing I had to do was tighten up one of the fuel line bolts that goes into the WUR. I over-tightened it and broke the head of the bolt off, leaving the threaded part stuck in the new WUR. This is what happens when novice DIY'ers tries to fiddle with mechanical parts.
    I was pretty pissed off because I was going to reinstall the battery and start it up for the first time since November.
    Anyway, how the hell do I fix this? Also, the bolt it one of those ones with a little hole under the head (hollow bolt?)- is that something I need to order specifically or can I find one at a hardware store?
    How tight are those fuel line bolts supposed to be? I didn't want gas spewing out of them so I thought they should be really tight.
    Last edited by pezzonovante88; 02-27-2013 at 09:42 PM.
    Previous Owner of 5875 - 1981/Grey/5-Speed/Grooved Hood

  3. #1883
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by pezzonovante88 View Post
    I got a new WUR/Control Pressure Regulator so today I went to install it. Everything went fine - I removed the old one and put in the new one. The last thing I had to do was tighten up one of the fuel line bolts that goes into the WUR. I over-tightened it and broke the head of the bolt off, leaving the threaded part stuck in the new WUR. This is what happens when novice DIY'ers tries to fiddle with mechanical parts.
    I was pretty pissed off because I was going to reinstall the battery and start it up for the first time since November.
    Anyway, how the hell do I fix this? Also, the bolt it one of those ones with a little hole under the head (hollow bolt?)- is that something I need to order specifically or can I find one at a hardware store?
    How tight are those fuel line bolts supposed to be? I didn't want gas spewing out of them so I thought they should be really tight.
    You should be able to grab the bolt with some tweezers or something and turn it out, since it's hollow inside. You definitely need to call up a vendor (or a friendly owner with spares) and get the correct replacement. A hardware store won't have it. Torque on these should only be 8 lb/ft.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  4. #1884
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by jawn101 View Post
    You should be able to grab the bolt with some tweezers or something and turn it out, since it's hollow inside. You definitely need to call up a vendor (or a friendly owner with spares) and get the correct replacement. A hardware store won't have it. Torque on these should only be 8 lb/ft.
    Too late to edit my post, but I should update the above to say that it depends which bolt you snapped what the torque should be. Check section D:02:01 part 10 in your shop manual for the torque spec for the particular size bolt you're dealing with. The smallest ones are ~8 ft/lb but if I'm reading your question above correctly and it's an M14 bolt then it's 11-14 ft/lb
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  5. #1885
    Car Fanatic. Technical Novice. pezzonovante88's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2011

    Location:  Near Toronto, ON

    Posts:    1,211

    My VIN:    Previous Owner of 5875

    Club(s):   (DOI)

    Quote Originally Posted by jawn101 View Post
    Too late to edit my post, but I should update the above to say that it depends which bolt you snapped what the torque should be. Check section D:02:01 part 10 in your shop manual for the torque spec for the particular size bolt you're dealing with. The smallest ones are ~8 ft/lb but if I'm reading your question above correctly and it's an M14 bolt then it's 11-14 ft/lb
    It's the smaller bolt that I snapped.
    Previous Owner of 5875 - 1981/Grey/5-Speed/Grooved Hood

  6. #1886
    Car Fanatic. Technical Novice. pezzonovante88's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2011

    Location:  Near Toronto, ON

    Posts:    1,211

    My VIN:    Previous Owner of 5875

    Club(s):   (DOI)

    Quote Originally Posted by pezzonovante88 View Post
    I got a new WUR/Control Pressure Regulator so today I went to install it. Everything went fine - I removed the old one and put in the new one. The last thing I had to do was tighten up one of the fuel line bolts that goes into the WUR. I over-tightened it and broke the head of the bolt off, leaving the threaded part stuck in the new WUR. This is what happens when novice DIY'ers tries to fiddle with mechanical parts.
    I was pretty pissed off because I was going to reinstall the battery and start it up for the first time since November.
    Anyway, how the hell do I fix this? Also, the bolt it one of those ones with a little hole under the head (hollow bolt?)- is that something I need to order specifically or can I find one at a hardware store?
    How tight are those fuel line bolts supposed to be? I didn't want gas spewing out of them so I thought they should be really tight.
    All sorted out now. Got someone at work to fix it. Ordered new bolts and washers.
    Previous Owner of 5875 - 1981/Grey/5-Speed/Grooved Hood

  7. #1887
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by pezzonovante88 View Post
    All sorted out now. Got someone at work to fix it. Ordered new bolts and washers.
    Glad to hear it!
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  8. #1888
    Vin3299's Doc DeLorean03's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Eglin AFB, FL

    Posts:    1,603

    My VIN:    3299

    Continued to re-assemble the engine from the VOD cleaning. Got to this point as of lastnight:

    581700_10151369025363710_1559907299_n.jpg

    The photo is aptly titled "Almost there...."

    Just have to reattach the fuel lines, re-crimp one ground wire, put the alternator belt back on, lock the alternator back in place, hook up the battery, and be glad it's over (: ...

    Then I move onto the headliners, driver's door trim, and sun visors!
    DMCTalk.org Moderator

    Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:

    Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.

    Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....

  9. #1889
    Senior Member dmc3130's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento CA.

    Posts:    200

    Quote Originally Posted by jawn101 View Post
    Started cleaning the motor to try and figure out where it's seeping oil from. Tightened down the oil light sender. Does anyone know if there should be a bolt in this hole in the timing cover? It had some oil in it but I don't have any spare bolts that are the right size. I tried one from elsewhere on the timing cover but it didn't feel right - like it wasn't threading and I didn't want to force it. The hole is just below and to the right of the idler pulley bracket, you can see the clip that holds the oil light sender wire.


    Did you ever find out if there is a bolt in that place?

  10. #1890
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by dmc3130 View Post
    Did you ever find out if there is a bolt in that place?
    Nope... do you have one there?

    I'm considering taking a fingerful of Right Stuff and just going along the seams of the oil pan to crankcase, crankcase to block, and timing cover to block to see if that stems the mess. It won't be pretty for now, but I think I'm going to have to pull the motor again anyway and put better seals in all these places than we did last time. Could clean it up pretty easily then.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

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