Just checked my cars and they don't have bolts in those holes either. If the insides are wet I imagine it's a gasket failure.
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 875
My VIN: 891, 1045
Just checked my cars and they don't have bolts in those holes either. If the insides are wet I imagine it's a gasket failure.
-James . . . "Life without knowledge is death in disguise." ~ H.P.G.
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Figured as much, thanks....Originally Posted by eagle-co94
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: WI
Posts: 248
My VIN: 5*9*
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Finished reassembling my rear suspension after cleaning/restoring. Replaced original Trailing arm bolts with improved TAB kit from DMCMW and new bushings as well.
BEFORE
2013-02-19_11-24-25_499.jpg
AFTER
2013-03-02_12-40-42_913.jpg
5*9*
Location: France
Posts: 2,457
My VIN: 16951
Club(s): (DCO) (DOA) (DCUK)
Nice job, congratulation
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Went over the fuse and relay area in the car to see how the connections looked.
I took out each fuse, inspected, and reinserted three times before leaving in place.
I also noticed one of the screws holding the relay socket tray to the main bracket was not in place. Likely not put back from a few seasons ago when I was reconnecting wires under the fan fail relay socket.
The screw that is missing is at the location of the cooling fan relay socket, #26 on the schematic. The screw on the other end at the low beam relay socket, #21 was in place. I replaced the missing screw with one I had and appearing to be a match. When I went to reinstall the relay into socket #26, it looks like the head of the screw is thicker/taller, and is likely touching the outside casing of the relay once it is fully inserted.
Is this a problem? Is there a potential grounded pathway issue here if I leave it as is? The top of the screw in socket #21 is close to touching the relay casing, but it looks like there is a bit of space in between still.
Also, when removing the 20 Amp fuses in the fan fail wiring upgrade, it looks like the wire on the right side which plugs into the right side female end of the socket, has the male spade connector end on the wire slightly oxidized. It wasn't rusted like you might see elsewhere on some fittings, but instead it had a bit of a shine to it and it was blackened. But not any kind of blackened that comes off on your finger if you touch it. It was more like the way stainless changes appearance when you heat it up or weld it. What's the meaning of this?! Any cause for concern there with that spade connector? It may have looked like this 4 years ago when I got it, I don't really recall inspecting it that closely.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,177
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
If the relay seats fully, forget about the screw being close/touching.
The discoloration of the spade connector is probably due to heat...you might check to see if it still has enough tension to hold onto the relay terminal/blade, but SOP says to replace it.
Location: Gulf Shores, Al
Posts: 1,780
My VIN: 4534
I got into my VOD last night and found lots of clay. It's from living on a dirt road.
And as bad as that looks I'm finding clean aluminum underneath. I still have to remove the y-tube to get better access but a shopvac and an extension tube is cleaning everything up well. I ran out of PBblaster when I soaked the bolts last night so I'm going to buy more tonight and soak them for a few days. I'm still waiting for some parts before I can remove the heads anyway.
Red
VIN 4534
Born - October 1981
Brought back to life - July 2011
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Thanks Ron. I am quite confident the relay is all the way into the socket. I didn't think there would be a grounding issue, but was seeking some reassurance
Agreed on replacing the connector. Either crimp new ones on or pitch it and get a replacement.
One of these days my garage will be above 0 degrees Celsius again and I can get back to making some progress on my car... I should have bought a polar bear farm and not a DMC
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Today I found that the two white/red wires behind the bulkhead connector had been quick-spliced together (argh!) and then quick-spliced to a single blue wire to the start inhibit relay. Something in this "repair" has gone awry and I intend to wire it back to stock specifications. Unfortunately, the wires were cut just behind the bulkhead connector, so this will be very tricky.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 359
My VIN: 16419
Took my car to its first car show. The friday night show at the Bobs Big boy in North Hollywood CA. Was a great experience. The car and all the custom lighting and work was really well received. It is still great to see that surrounded by all these great classic cars the DeLorean still captures peoples attention and imagination. But then again, that is what the car is all about in the first place.
They have it there every friday night. Hope to bring it back earlier than I did last time and get a better spot to show off.
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