Drained the tank in prep for cleaning. Hoping by tomorrow evening its completely dry and I can just vacuum all the crap out of it
Drained the tank in prep for cleaning. Hoping by tomorrow evening its completely dry and I can just vacuum all the crap out of it
- Devon
83 Canadian Spec - Manual, Grey, Fixed Pulls, Flat Hood
So continues the work to put the new headliners back in place. Today, silicone sealing the fiberglass roof to the roofbox:
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So here we are with the roof box and the fiberglass roof thoroughly cleaned, sanded, prepped, and ready to go. A black silicone will go between the two and make a watertight seal, keeping my new headliners safe. In one hand, I will have a caulk gun with black silicone, in the other will be a screwdriver to pry between the roofbox and the fiberglass roof. The trick is to lay a continuous and steady bead of silicone. We'll see how it goes....
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Here is the final product. I placed multiple beads of silicone between the roofbox and the fiberglass roof. After that, I took a paper towel and wiped off the excess silicone. Then I took my fingers and rubbed the silicone from left to right in one swoop. This was to flatten the silicone on the edge of the fiberglass roof and the roofbox and to do also make a good uniform appearance while making sure the seal was solid.
The four spring clamps are holding the two in place without squeezing the silicone out from between the two bodies. This needs to sit for 3 hours with the garage at about 68-72 degrees. Once this is done, I will sand and vacuum the rest of the door sill area. Then I will lay down a gray epoxy primer in prep for the paint. Finally, I will spray an acrylic based automotive Rustoleum paint in flat black. Once that is done, I can finally get the headliners ready to put back into the roof, replace the outer door seal, secure the headliners, and glue the fabric of the headliners back into place with the seals covering the edges.
Just to think, I thought the roof headliners would be a 2 day job tops. It's been 9 days now :P. These kind of "unexpected jobs" are fun to me. They can be a bit of a drag, but I try to see them as opportunities to succeed rather than "RAWR RAWR RAWR...." moments (: !
DMCTalk.org Moderator
Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 2,734
My VIN: 01643
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
Removed rear fascia assembly and bumper for engine access.
Installed rivet-nuts into fiberglass body for easier removal of the fascia in the future.
Replaced AC compressor clutch bearing as well as the AC belt tensioner.
Also re-epoxying several tail light nuts in the fascia. (I always have so much trouble with these)
Installed a new battery. Boy has the price of batteries gone up. Cheapest I could find was $79 at Kmart. And that is the cheapest battery (they also have Die Hard). I'm keeping my old battery because it seemed like it did not take much to charge it and it still started the car one week later. Maybe there is another problem that will show up. "Core" charge is only $9 anyway.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
More repair of holes with fiberglass. This time, I followed the instruction of HillBillyDMC on here, and the results I am pleased with.
One of the holes I plugged:
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Here we have a tiny black rust hole in the middle of the photograph. Time to practice more fiberglass work. This area has been cleaned and sanded - ready for fiberglass application!
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Here, a layer of fiberglass with resin has been applied.
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And here a second layer of fiberglass has been applied over the first one. Let thit dry for 90 mins, and no water will be getting back into that hole (: ...
DMCTalk.org Moderator
Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Spent this week rebuilding the front callipers and installing stainless braided brake lines. Have just had the new bearings (well NOS, and it's obvious unfortunately so will need to look into something better later) pressed into the hubs so have now fitted new rotors and reinstalled.
Just got to fit the new pads, bleed, tighten everything up, and take her out for a shakedown - hopefully no issues so I can take her for a trip tomorrow, first time she'll be on the road since trip to Sydney last month.
Chris
Reinstalled the fuel pump tonight after cleaning the tank REALLY well yesterday. She's good to go for a while
- Devon
83 Canadian Spec - Manual, Grey, Fixed Pulls, Flat Hood
Removed my Craig Radio, un-jammed the tape and managed to put the deck back together again. Too afraid to stick in another tape to see if it all works, but at least I have the radio back again! With the center console out I also took apart the wiring for the after-market CD-changer and re-routed it so I can remove it all later in the summer (once I've decided whether to AUX-in the Craig, use a wired FM modulator or replace head-unit with a Retrosound Model One).
Finally got to drive the car with some music though!
Will be putting the center console back together next and then moving on to why the wings-a-loft has stopped working for the drivers side door...
All done and shakedown went fantastically - no noise from the bearings and brakes insanely better than he ever has! Off for a good trip tomorrow
Chris
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 276
My VIN: 1776
Installed Club UK lower ball joints and replaced my ignition module, which was intermittently flaky.